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Corsica Hiking Col (Col Garin)

early morning The light on the tip Grivola and its satellites. This massive rock pyramid fathom the surrounding mountains from a height of 3969 m and yet it is unknown to most climbers.

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A bit of climbing: 10.2007 Awirs

From time to time, we must do sports, guaranteeing a healthy physical and moral foolproof. That day we decided to release a cliff despite the cold numbed our little toes. The slab of Awirs old quarry edge Maas near Liege and 80 meters high graciously lent its ripples in our soles.
The term slab also seems well suited to this site. The technique more than strength (if indeed we had a large) helped us more than usual.

However, some passages may be a bit upright. This breaks the rhythm and we gives joy to vary the pleasures.

Here we are hard at work, or rather the first over from a very old track site: Vade Retro Satana, which runs three lengths, easy, moreover, to the delight of aesthetes éthiliques we are. 4000 H dreamer will start from the ground and reach me before moving the second length.

Dreamer 4000 H to reach the first relay. The atmosphere is fabulous close to home, we are indeed the best way of Awirs in my opinion.

Dreamer 4000 H head on over to the second length: a nice edge with just enough gas to feel good.

The third length, the most beautiful. It is a little mossy, but the rock is up to our expectations, and just skated Prisu wish. We take the height and fun in this abandoned quarry, kindergarten climbers of every stripe.

A small climbing to close, not so easy in fact, notwithstanding the modest rating (4 +)

The top of the line for 4000 Dreamy H. We will return Certainly.

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Berner Oberland: Balmhorn, Tschingellochtighorn & 3699m, 2735m

early September, the bug had bitten again. I'm talking about this irresistible urge, to his backpack, put his shoes on, leaving everything behind, take the car or train and get closer to the mountains.

Once decided that I was leaving, I quickly made contact with Albert Brunner, Swiss guide Spiez, who had climbed the Monte Disgrazia particularly in summer 2006. I communicated to him my desire to learn more about Blümlisalpgruppe, one of the wonders of the Oberland, and we began a rapid agreement on the twin goals of Blümlisalphorn (3664m PD +) and Fründenhorn (3368m PD + as well).

early October, I boarded the train to Kandersteg. I had been through this beautiful village several times en route to or returning from the Valais, and was struck by the natural surroundings. Upon my arrival, I rushed to my hotel, and I will soon walk down the main street to enjoy the magnificent views of the chain Blümlisalp (here in the middle, Blümlisalphorn).

A Blümlisalphorn right, you can barely see the top of Doldenhorn (3643m), preceded by Klein Doldenhorn (3475m) and the bastion of spectacular Fisistock (2945m). We clearly see the rocky outcrop on which is situated the Doldenhornhütte and part of the route of ascent Doldenhorn (see also attempt to climb Dreamer 4000 (D) in 2004).

Blümlisalp the glorious panorama. Note, however, this layer of heavy snow down to an altitude of + / - 2000m!

Original sign indicating the direction of some of the Swiss Alpine Club huts.

Focus on Blümlisalp: Rothorn left, amidst the Blülmisalphorn with the normal left the summit, and finally Oeschinenhorn (3486m).

The next day, I intend to take a short walk in the front corner to join Albert and decided to put me on the way to Doldenhornhütte. Halfway, a call on my mobile phone. It was Albert who told me he phoned the guards and shelters Blümlisalphütte Frundenhütte and that their opinion is unanimous: no peaks due to possible heavy snowfall! Instead, Albert offers me to climb Balmhorn, nearby summit rising to 3699m, and apparently in good condition. Obviously, I'm not hard to accept it: in fact, Balmhorn is long on my short list of ascents to undertake. In addition, Dreamer 4000 (D) I had intended to make the summit in 2004 before finally succeeding in the Mönch, my first 4000.

After that phone call, I turned back immediately and starts to climb towards the Oeschinensee, the famous high mountain lake well known to tourists visiting Switzerland. First impressions come to 1578: morose, heavy gray clouds, rain! Fründenhorn here and we immediately understand why he is out of question to begin its ascent ...

But after half an hour, the weather changes again: West arrives suddenly the weather!

Gradually, the atmosphere exult. We begin to see many mountains around, the sun comes out, etc.. However, very cold and I put fleece, thick jacket and hat to keep warm.

Again, the massive and Blümlisalp Fründenhorn neighbor.

Around the lake there are some beautiful wooden house, with their decorated facades.

The color of the lake has changed imperceptibly into the gray sky. We understand why the Oeschinensee is considered a natural wonder. Anyway, I intend to return when it's really beautiful and hot!

takes me to a rapid descent to Kandersteg train station, where I meet my guide, Albert Brunner. After a short bus ride and a cable car ride, we arrive at Sunnbüel (1920m), where a glorious mountain scenery greets us!

As seen from Kandersteg, hardly seems the Doldenhorn impressive south face is seen by a huge mass of rock bands, small glaciers cascade, and lots and lots of climbing.

The brownish color of meadows shows that we are in early October. Although immediately above us, the north face of the Altels (3629m) summit Balmhorn neighbor.

The path is easy but also very nice. It passes through the pastures of the Spittelmatte before climbing toward the hotel-refuge Schwarenbach and, finally, the Gemmipass (2314m).

112 years ago, at the time when glaciers éaient much larger, the glacier cascade Altels collapsed one day and thousands of tons of ice had reached the valley at an alarming rate. Several small pastures were buried and six people were killed.

Between Altels left, and part of the northern flank of Rinderhorn, right, you can see the Zackengrat, we follow the ridge toward the next summit Balmhorn (hidden by Altels ).

view the Spittelmatte, Sunnbüel, and behind the peaks of Ärmighorn (2742m), Bire (2502m), Zallershorn (2743m) and Dündenhorn (2862m).

After a good hour's walk, we arrive at Schwarenbach (2061m). This hotel has been operating since 1742 and can count a large number of personalities among its guests, including Mark Twain, Lenin, Alexandre Dumas, Maupassant and Picasso.

The "Hüttenfuchs" made his daily visit in search of food.

The next day we get up at 4:50. In autumn, there is no need to get up once in summer, as temperatures are lower and the snow therefore takes longer. Leaving the shelter at 5:45. After reversing the path to Sunnbüel for 500 meters, we follow a small path on the right which rises gradually to the moraine Schwarzgletscher. At bottom right, the Zackenpass (3036m), which marks the beginning of Zackengrat.

We follow the rituals known before climbing on a glacier: putting his boots, his belt, tying, eat and drink sth ...

From here you can see the entire Schwarzgletscher with right part of Zackengrat and basically the top western Balmhorn (3667m). This side of 40 ° be our descent route.

We climb the north side of Zackengrat (35 °). Once upstairs, the sun and a panorama of extraordinary summits of the Valais are the reward for our efforts. On the left, we recognize the Serpentine (3795m), the Pigne Arolla (3790m), Mont Blanc Cheilon (3870m) and Ruinette (3875m). In the middle of the image, the majestic Grand Combin massif (4314m).

Then come the lords of the corner (right left): Grand Cornier, Dent Blanche, Pointe de Zinal, Matterhorn, Obergabelhorn, Zinalrothorn, Weisshorn Bishorn and Lyskamm.

From right to left: Lyskamm, Dufourspitze, Nordend, Cimma da Jazi, Täschhorn, Dom and the entire Nadelgrat.

The beginning of the Zackengrat is very spectacular. However, we are moving fast enough, it does not sink too far into the snow and the plot is not steep.

Opposite us, the massive Lohner (3046m).

We made a little break. Basically, the Altels.

Behind the ridge, and across the Lötschental Bietschhorn (3934m).

You walk. The ridge is long, but very pleasant to go.

The lowest point of the ridge is Zackenpass. To the right of Zackenpass the Rinderhorn and its edge is just recommended (III +). At bottom left, the Mont Blanc.

Part spectacular ridge.

The Bietschhorn Lötschental king, his throne among vasalles. At bottom left, Nesthorn (3824m).

We arrive at the end of Zackengrat. Before us, a long snow slope leading to the summit west. Behind the main summit of Balmhorn.

Here, finally, I began to seriously slow down. I suppose that three reasons are the basis for my slowness: 1) physical condition not the height of the lens (it is true that I was in better shape at the crossing the Mont Rose), 2) the enormous altitude (1700m), and 3) a lack of acclimatization (pre- Yesterday, I was still at sea level). Fortunately, Albert is a guide to patient and do not hurry.

I secretly dreamed of linking the crossing to Altels Balmhorn to climbing, but my tiredness made me quickly understand that achieving the first objective will be a feat in itself. Too bad, this passage (II, presentation) will be for next time.

We arrive at the top west. 600 meters below, the Zackenpass. At the bottom of the valley, Leukerbad.

Albert félécite me and asks me if I still want to continue. It is true that it is now 6:15 and we are in a road schedule is there to stick (5 to 6 hours are planned). However, I do not confine the summit: go en route to the main summit!

Albert on the summit of West Balmhorn.

We're really close now. Little downhill, crossing a valley of snow, then an easy climb.

's it! 6:30 Schwarenbach after leaving, we arrive at the top of Balmhorn (3699m). Breathtaking views Blümlisalp chain, then the holy triptych of Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau. Tschingelhorn follow the Ebnefluh, and quite at the bottom right, Finsteraarhorn.

Vision splendid: the Mont Blanc, highest peak in the Alps.

Traditional picture of jubilation on the summit of a mountain!

The cross is a few meters below the summit. Albert falls and fills the book our names. Who knows, maybe one day, the culmination of Balmhorn be there? Global warming and melting snow oblige!

Rinderhorn Behind the massive Wildstrubel (3243m), Wildhorn (3248m), Les Diablerets (3210m) and Grand Muveran (3051m).

The Altels and behind the Lohner.

Having spent a quarter of an hour at the top, we begin to descend. Albert feels that the west side is in good condition and rushed down. I can hardly keep pace: sometimes I slip on a patch of ice, sometimes I stumble, sometimes I let myself get downright. My poor gaiters, watches 15 years, will not survive the descent.

Further down the glacier becomes flatter, but also more dangerous: many cracks require us to be very careful and look our way. And presto! I feel the snow disappear below my feet and I find myself in it. I really struggled to get out (we had removed our crampons and just before the walls of the crevasse are made of pure ice and hard) and Albert should get out of there.

In the middle of danger, especially as falling rocks may fall on us left and right.

But finally, we come to the moraine.

front of us, the long descent.

Last Zackengrat and view towards the Pass.

10:45 And after walking, we finally return to the hotel Schwarenbach, it was a really long day. I can not feel my feet! It was provided we continue our path until Lämmerenhütte (2507m), and the next day they would climb the Wildstrubel, but given the late hour at which we returned and my general state of fatigue, it was decided iron overnight at Schwarenbach.

beers and dinner are a good reward for the day! We discuss different possibilities: Wildstrubel is too far, Albert did not really want to get on the Rinderhorn (too monotonous, he said) and I do not want to climb the Altels . I propose to go to Albert at the foot of Tschingellochtighorn, small rock mass peak at 2735m, and see if we can make the ascent, and he agrees.

This time, we get up and leave at 5:50 so any release an hour later. Between Rinderhorn, left, and Daubenhorn, right, you can see the Dent Blanche.

After 45 minutes, we arrive at Schwarzgrätli Pass (2383m). At bottom, the Tschingellochtighorn.

Albert gazing at this fantastic landscape.

The first rays of sunlight illuminate the Lohner.

A small picturesque path crosses among huge boulders, snowfields and small lakes. View on the Steghorn (3146m) and Tierhorn (2894m).

Engstligengrat arrived in the basin Engstligenalp above Adelboden lies before us. The Wildstrubel, good snow, dominates the whole.

Chindbettihorn (2691m), and Tierhörnli Steghorn succeed.

The most beautiful mountain in the Alps ...

The Engstligengrat is a fantastic place to make a long picknick. But there, behind, left, emerges our goal, Tschingellochtighorn, and continue its path.

From left to right: Blümlisalphorn, Doldenhorn, Lötschentaler Breithorn (3785m) and Aletschhorn (4195m).

last break at the foot of Tschingellochtighorn. Afterwards, bypassing the mass from the left and climb a steep rocky slope that leads from the main summit and the summit west.

The original wall: it is steep but it looks very doable. Albert cares a bit about the lack of equipment we have with us and the lack of spits the path. He decides to go anyway but not promising anything ...

But the first few meters overcome, not everything turns out to be very difficult. The little wall is followed by a beautiful dihedral and the first spit was quickly found. It's not so easy to climb mountain with godasses but you get used very quickly. Here we see Albert in the second length.

Beautiful view to the valley of Kandersteg.

was plenty of time to study the southern edge Vorder Lohner: easy (I) but many small pebbles and very difficult to achieve. The edge west of the mountain is a nicer lens.

access to the highest point on the mountain seems blocked: the layer of snow makes the ascent very risky. Albert félécite me.

I still tries to move a few meters but am not 100% sure.

More than a few meters ...

... but I decided to turn back ...

... the while being very careful. One slip and it is in a vacuum.

In turn, Albert goes smoothly and reached the summit.

Doubling motivated, I try all for everything, and moments later I find myself at the highest point of Tschingellochtighorn.

The view is, as often happens in these parts, exquisite.

I am proud to have arrived on this worthy goal of climbing (PD-, III-).

In sum, I thought the chain Vorder Lohner but I quickly realized that this objective is for climbers in great condition.

I'm about to go down the hallway of the second length.

brief stop in the relay while ...

... Albert turn down the corridor.

is down the first length in the recall.

Albert taught me the art of accurate recall.

Here almost the entire route.

Then we began the descent towards the Valley Uschene.

In front of us, and Altels Rinderhorn.

A last look at the Tschingellochtighorn. It welcomes back the sun, flowers, waterfalls.

We descend to an altitude of 1800m before making a cons-ascent of 500 meters to a pass at the foot of Gällihorn.

After 1h30 'climb, finally came to pass. It was a real nightmare for me. I realize that the climb of the day Balmhorn cost me many forces and am happy not having tried the Rinderhorn, or other Wildstrubel Altels.

Beautiful view in the wild valley Gastern. South side of Doldenhorn left early Wildelsigengrat difficult leading to Balmhorn right.

The north face of Balmhorn, largely hidden by the perfect triangle Altels.

Rinderhorn Facing north, I want to do summit one day in the company of Dreamer 4000 (D).

Back to Kandersteg train station. Albert and I are still a few plans for the year Next (Zinalrothorn, Piz Palü?) and we say goodbye. I spent a pleasant evening and a very short night at the Hotel Zur Post in Kandersteg and embarked in the early morning train from Bern. The train, I am fortunate to see the pair Balmhorn / Altels. Goodbye to you, the mountains! After

targets missed during my first two trips to Switzerland this year, I am very happy with this trip. The Balmhorn was not that easy, but what a beautiful and highest mountain! The goal was a perfect Tschingellochtighorn after major efforts Balmhorn and confirmed to me that the rock is really my favorite area. I some great ideas for the 2008 season (Morteratsch / Bernina / Palü or Pointe de Zinal / Besso / Trifthorn / Zinalrothorn) but am aware that I can not lie to me every year and tell me that my physical condition is not that bad. No, it is not bad but need more training, more courage and more determination to succeed to reach the end of my dreams.