It was time that the chain of Bernina, located in the easternmost part of Switzerland, on the border with the Confederation and Italy, drew my attention to a serious mountaineer. These are the highest mountains in the eastern Alps, but their character, there's no doubt they are part of the glorious Western Alps.
These are mountains that are all mountain dream: the graceful lines of the pillars of Piz Palü, the most perfect edge of the Alps, Biancograt, cone dramatic Piz Roseg, etc.. I thought the "Big Berninadurchquerung" school of mountaineering Berg & Tal would be by far the best package to get acquainted with the most beautiful parts of the massif (without address in very large pieces like the edge of the Piz Bernina Bianco or Eselsgrat Piz Roseg, it will be for another time!). Anyway, I was hoping for better luck in 2006, when the same package was canceled for lack of participants!
But fortunately, no cancellation announcement, and it is with pleasure that I get on the train for the trip has now become very familiar to the Alps ...
After traveling extremely long and tedious (despite the beautiful scenery!), Arrived in Pontresina in the Engadine. Nothing has changed from two years ago, I put my business in a small studio in the former part of the village, and will then eat a good pizza pizzeria seen even during the transition before 2006! Then it's bedtime, it must be fit for tomorrow because the weather is beautiful, and I want to enjoy a nice hike for acclimatization.
Saturday, 6/28/2008: Pontresina, 1805m - Piz Languard 3268m - Bernina Suot, 2046m (trek)
The next day I get up very early, I'm very excited to be in the mountains, the weather is nice, I must leave! Objective: Piz Languard classic goal over Piz Languard. Easy, of course (a T3), but famous for its panorama. I walk through the village still asleep and then begins to climb a nice little way. Fairly quickly, I reached the treeline (Pontresina located at an altitude of 1800m) and sees the Val Bernina still in shadow. In the distance, the chain of Bernina is already showing beautiful in the morning sun.
Farther above Alp Languard (circa 2300), the Bernina line is as an open book. Magnificent spectacle, for free on the pillars of Palü, graceful Bellavista, the narrow ridge The Bianco ...
I will stay happy hours here. Remember this place for a family outing, what an air pick-nick!
Having eaten nothing that morning, hoping to take my breakfast at the Chamanna Paradiso (2540m), but alas, apart from his name and picture paradise it has nothing to offer me because it is closed! (Eight hours is too early for the first tourists to arrive, the life of a mountaineer - that automatically gets up early in the morning ;-) - is hard sometimes).
But the cries of the stomach are quickly forgotten the face of nature as glorious.
On the other side of the valley of the Engadin Piz Ot (3246m, T4) is presented as an attractive destination for excursions.
Here we go again: a little downhill in Val Languard, and I begin the climb to the Chamanna Georgy.
View St. Moritz lake and the majestic Piz Julier (3380m) at the bottom.
Piz Languard is located in an area where there are a lot of goats. And now: I see him on a ridge in front of me!
The climb ends faster than expected but I'm still happy to come to this little hut just below the summit of Piz Languard.
I quickly order a breakfast to the guard and takes me a nice comfortable seat on the terrace of the hut. I have ample time to contemplate the vast panorama that presents itself before me. With the zoom camera, Biancograt seems tangible.
This is a view on the summit of Piz Languard. It's too tempting, I must climb it.
The path to the summit is very easy, although some cables easier way. View of Piz Albris, 3165m, and behind the Piz Palu.
I reach the top of Piz Languard 3262m. Incredible sight! My gaze is in every sense, there is so much to see! The large peak in the middle is solid Piz Kesch, 3418m.
Here, there is not much to add! From left to right: Cambrena Piz, Piz Palü, Bellavista, Crast Aguzzi, Piz Bernina, Piz Morteratsch, Piz Tschierva.
Silvretta massif, shared by Switzerland and Austria. The three prominent peaks are Piz Linard 3410m, Piz Buin, 3312m, and Fluchthorn, 3398m.
It can go fast: yesterday morning to close to 0 meters in Belgium, now beyond 3000m in Switzerland. It's enough to feel good.
I watch all these summits that I'm supposed to climb in a few days and wonder if the weather will hold, how will the circumstances, I'll keep going, etc..
What now? The Passage to Piz Muragl does not seem funny at all (very steep and very stony) and I did not want to do the whole Languard Crasta. I decide to go down to the shelter and begin the ride to altitude Fuorcla Pischa and Piz Albris, maybe it is allowed to climb. En route, beautiful mountain anemones.
The road is spectacular, it is still early in the season and there are still lots of snow. A lunar landscape awaits the Fuorcla Pischa, 2837m. A glance at the Piz Albris enough to abandon all idea of climbing: aa looks really stiff where it is supposed to rise and more, I'm still tired after the rise of + / - 1500m Piz Languard. It's not serious, beautiful views more than compensate.
The descent is hardly reassuring given the poor condition of the road, sometimes completely hidden under masses of snow still present, and most is endless! Finally, the Val da Fain looks like a green oasis.
More than a half-hour walk, and I find myself in the Val Bernina. At the nearest station (Bernina Suot), I take the famous "Bernina Express" and in no fit in Pontresina. I feel the fatigue, the rise of the station to the village seems very long ... Tomorrow, I planned to climb the Piz Ot or Piz Julier, but the long-predicted rise of 5 hours does not motivate me. Hey, I read that they had built a new via ferrata in the corner. And if I did, it would be a nice entrance into the material because I never made real via ferrata far. OK, it's decided, I rented a "Klettersteigset" and head to the store Salewa in the village and will enjoy a rest then bos.
Sunday, 6/29/2008: Diavolezza, 2978m - Piz trovata, 3146m - Sass Quedas, 3066m - Munt Pers, 3207m - Diavolezza (hiking, via Ferrata Piz trovata B)
The next day, I take one of first trains towards the Bernina Pass. First stop at the station Morteratsch, 1896m. A view of three-star (Michelin Green Guide ©) on the Bernina and Val Morteratsch waiting.
Then it goes up Station Bernina Diavolezza. Cable car and train are well connected, I can climb right away with one of the first bins. Lago Bianco is already shining. Basically, the Italian Alps.
Once in the Diavolezza, 2973m, the entire mass of the Bernina unfolds: second panorama 3 stars of the day!
I stay mouth bé before the Piz Palü and its famous three pillars: on the left pillar (D, 1st ascent: 1899), amid the central pillar called "Bumiller (D +, first ascent: 1887 ), and right on West Pillar (D, 1st ascent: 1899).
The four vertices of the graceful Bellavista: 3799m, 3888m, 3890m and 3922m.
The highest mountain chain, the Piz Bernina 4049m, and its neighbor Piz Morteratsch, 3751m. Bottom right, the confluence of glaciers and Morterarsch Pers.
Ah, this is the first goal of the day, Piz trovata, 3146m, I hope to achieve through a via ferrata B side (= not difficult). A nice entry into the field!
However, making a via ferrata is one thing, find the beginning, is something else. I walk around the entire mountain by right, and it is finally reaching the Fuorcla trovata that I realize I'm not going in the right direction. I have to turn back.
Nevertheless, the views of Piz Cambrena with his famous "Eisnase" (AD, 50 °) are fascinating.
When I'm almost fully retraced my steps, I saw some people head to the foot of the wall. Ah, damn, I completely missed the small road. In 5 minutes, I reach the top of the via ferrata. Here, it is time to put his harness, helmet and lanyard. All this is new to me, I am curious how it will happen.
I realize quickly that the via ferrata trovata Piz is not difficult. A beautiful series of ropes, ladders, small walls, etc.. Allows me to quickly gain altitude.
funny Part of the climb, crossing the suspension bridge is not for chochotes.
The views of the surrounding glacial landscape make the characteristic of this via ferrata.
Too fast, I reach the end of the difficulties and the summit of Piz trovata. Mmm, it was great that, in addition, one can go through this kind channels alone and in complete safety, it makes you want to go explore the famous (and harder) copies in the Dolomites!
After a short break at the top of Piz trovata I tumbles its snowy slopes / stony, and began the short climb Sass Quedas. Pff, painful pile of stones! This is really not worth it, the summit is a non-descript with a small bench. Finally, one more mountain to the collection ...
Nevertheless, I have an interesting view on the Glacier Pers, which shows the skin of the elephant.
I was getting a bit tired at this point, but I really wanted to climb to the highest point of Munt Pers, whose view was absolutely magnificent reputation.
and Ben, I was not disappointed, always the same heights, but with other angles of views. Super!
Tired but happy, I go to Pontresina. That evening I celebrated with the Spaniards, who beat Germany in the final of the European Cup (1-0).
Monday, 30/06/2008: Pontresina, 1805m - Chamanna Tschierva, 2583m (trek)
The next day, at noon, it's time to get acquainted with other participants of stay: Andi and Sammy, the two guides, Anna, Leo, Roger Hans-Jörg (Switzerland) and Severin (German). From the outset, I feel it's a great group. First objective: the refuge Tschierva by Val Roseg.
After two hours in very good shape, we reach a junction: turn right, we reached the hotel Roseg straight, we continue to Chamanna Tschierva. Glaciers and peaks in the valley are splendid (left to right: Sella, 3584m, Piz Glüschaint, 3594m, the Muongia, 3415m, It Chapütschin, 3386m).
Trail, beautiful, first passes through a small plain ... 
... then up the side of the moraine of the glacier Tschierva. One of the most beautiful peaks in the eastern Alps, Piz Roseg, 3937m, is revealed. 
And then it was the turn of the Piz Bernina and Piz Scerscen. The refuge is not so far. 
After 4 hours of climbing, we reach the Chamanna Tschierva, 2584m, interesting mix of architectural styles. 
We settle quickly and have enough time to contemplate the landscape: the famous ridge of Piz Bernina Bianco takes shape clearly against a background of blue sky of early evening. 
Latest clouds dissipate, and we have a magnificent view of the Piz Roseg, whose best-known track, the edge of donkeys (Eselsgrat, AD, III, 40 °), is a dream. 
The highest mountain chain, the Piz Bernina and Piz Scerscen, 3971m. 
There are many people in the hut: some like us, want to climb the Piz Morteratsch, others want to climb the Piz Tschierva. Nevertheless, the majority's objective is the most beautiful ridge of the Alps, leading to Biancograt Piz Bernina. After dinner rally before the modern part of the refuge (the dining room) to watch the sunset.
Tuesday, 7/1/2008: Chamanna Tschierva, 2583m - Piz Morteratsch, 3751m - Fuorcla Boval, 3347m - Chamanna Boval, 2495m - Morteratsch, 1896m - Diavolezza, 2978m (PD, II, 40 °)
The morning departure is certainly not too early: we leave the shelter about 5:30. 
We reach after an hour's walk Vadret Tschierva da), we encordons (I'm in a cord with Sammy, the aspiring guide, and Hans-Jörg Severin), and we begin to ascend the glacier little stiff and cracked. 
We'll Pass Boval and are preparing to confront the key passage of the climb: a steep (40 °) and icy that we will instead bypass the obstacle by the left as make Many strung. 
The transition is not easy and does not inspire much confidence, but even when we win quickly with altitude. The edge of the secondary top, 3611m to the summit principal, presented a highlight of the rise and full of opportunities to take spectacular photos. 
Opposite Piz Roseg is a spectacular cluster of edges, steep walls, vertical ice, etc.. 
We arrive after 3:45 at the summit of Piz Morteratsch, 3751m. I had a soft spot just before the summit but finally I can say that fitness and technique have been up to this first objective.
Piz Morteratsch is an excellent viewpoint over the central part of the Bernina line. A special meeting is the view of the ridge Bianco. 
After half an hour rest, it is time to turn back. The descent to the col Boval is not easy: a thin layer of snow covers the ice hard and we must concentrate to avoid skidding. 
Fortunately, the two guides leading the party steady hand and arrive safe and sound Boval neck. 
Small Boval neck rest. Again, the view is excellent. Towards the south, climbing the Piz Morteratsch in which just launched a cord. 
Eastward, our gaze descends hundreds of meters to Boval refuge, at the bottom. What we need to go down there? 
And yes, we have no choice. However, this descent is very interesting that climbing is difficult anywhere, but in which we must stay focused, small steep snowfields over here and there, big boulders, etc.. 
After two hours of descent, an oasis amongst all the rocks and ice that lies ahead: the terrace of the hut Boval, 2495m. We are thirsty and beers were quickly ordered! 
the refuge, the view of the confluence of glaciers Pers (left) and Morteratsch (right) is excellent. 
A violent storm drives us into a 1-2-3 inside. After an hour wait, that's calmed down and we begin the decent to the station Morteratsch to 1896m. Behind you can see the Piz and Piz Languard Albris. 
Small rise in train to Diavolezza and then takes the bucket jusq'à Diavolezza. I do not care you have been already, the three pillars of Piz Palü are more beautiful than ever in the evening sun! Even the lack of warmth and charm of the shelter (well, not hotel) Diavolezza narrive not make me moody. We are not much in the refuge we 8 and two cords of two (including one that will climb the pillar of Piz Palu). 
myself with pride before an Alpine legend (see also the photo before the Piz Badile taken two years ago :-).
Wednesday, 02/07/2008: Diavolezza, 2978m - Piz Palü, 3905m (crossing, PD +, II, 40 °) - Rifugio Marco e Rosa, 3609m
Breakfast taken when it was still dark then we leave the shelter toward the pass and glacier Trobat Pers. It is broken now, the ritual of the tie, putting spikes, runs flawlessly. 
The glacier gradually stiffened. The track cleverly weaves between many cracks and crevasses. I was a little afraid of this climb, given the efforts of the previous day, but my condition and my acclimatization are good: I feel no particular difficulty or weakness despite three straight jumps to cross. 
After reaching a small hill to 3726m, we take a steep snow ridge (40 °). This leads us right to the eastern summit of Piz Palü, 3882m, of which one reaches the highest point after 4 hours of walking. Already, our eyes are attracted by the ridge that leads to the central peak. Not pause, we continue! Basically, Piz Zupo, an almost-4000m (3996m). 
The ridge between the summit and the eastern central summit of Piz Palu is very slender and do not be afraid of heights. But again, no problems, and with other climbers, we tread the highest point of the mountain at 3905m. 
The summit is broad and we will take a long break. 
The huge mass that fills the southern horizon is nothing but the Monte Disgrazia, which I climbed in July 2006. 
We are off again with the intention complements the crossing of the Piz Palu. 
The crossing is not very difficult (some passages in II and steep snowfields) ... 
... but we must stay focused all the time and not to look right into the north face. 
Much too soon we reach the end of this wonderful journey. It was wonderful, she has kept all its promises (some say it's the prettiest in the Alps crossing point). But we must continue, the weather closed in and the guides start to press and mount the cadence. We cross the plateau of the Bellavista in snow deep enough. The Crast 'Aguzzi somewhat resembles the Matterhorn ... 
At bottom left, you can see the goal of the day, the hut Marco e Rosa, Italy. Then, from left to right is the south side of the Piz and Piz Roseg Scerscen, and Spalla ridge leading to the highest summit of the massif, the Piz Bernina. 
Thursday, 03.07.2008: Rifugio Marco e Rosa, 3597m - Piz Bernina 4049m - Rifugio Marco e Rosa (PD, II, 45 °)
We start very early the next morning. Our goal is nothing but the highest mountain chain and the eastern Alps Bernina: the Piz Bernina 4049m. The weather is still relatively good, but we feel that it spoils the wind begins to blow, it's cold, etc.. We must first climb a snow slope which stiffens more. We reaches the edge by a small hallway where the ice is good with cling points before (45 °). 
The Crast'Agüzza, 3854m, and Piz Argient, 3945m, at the bottom left. 
The edge is very impressive! It is assured by our guides, so many passages of II (with spikes) are fun to browse. 
Highest, one comes to the secondary top, the Spedla, 4020M. Here, conditions are very difficult: it is snowing, the wind blows strongly, we must be careful not being jostled in a vacuum. Strange effect: the rope between us rises and pretends to fly. 
But our guides and persist after two and a half hours of climbing, we reached the highest point of Grisons. 
Even if they are not my primary goal, reaching the summit a "4000" is something special that needs to celebrate. 
The return is in the same appalling conditions. Do not panic, the rock is excellent and the participants do not complain. 
Here the small corridor of ice at 45 °. 
We get up at 5 am on the last day of the circuit, but the keeper of the shelter we advise return to the dorm: time will improve but for now, the wind blows too hard and the visibility is poor. And indeed, two hours later the weather improved. After breakfast, we prepare before entering the shelter.
Former refuge from the walls of the freshly snow Crast'Agüzza. 
is what causes day and night of blizzard: a winter landscape. 
great atmosphere at the outset: the snow, the sun hiding behind clouds, snow blown by the wind ... 
... I still have a vivid recollection of those magical moments in the mountains. 
Our last goal of the week is the top of the Bellavista 3922m. 
we cross the plateau of Bellavista and climb a steep snow slope towards the secondary top north-east, 3890m. 
Seen from the secondary top towards the main summit the Bellavista 3922m. However, the guides decided not to continue. Too bad, but I respect their decision (too much snow?, Are we too late in the day?).
A rope followed us closely. 
Even if one does not continue its path towards the highest point of the mountain, I feel proud and happy to be there. 
After a short break, we start the (half-) crossing of the mountain. 
East of Bellavista, 3799m, is the top Occidential says "Spin" on Piz Palu. I can not believe we've come this ridge a few days ago. 
Piz Zupo: probably the "nearly 4000" the most solitary, because it is virtually invisible to the valley. 
Again, I saw an incredible time: what a beauty! 
The edge we have traveled and leading to secondary top northeast. 
Spectacular views on the Piz Palu. 
In the secondary top of the Bellavista East, we see a clear path of descent: the edge Fortezza. 
We must focus one last time: a little steep ridge descends steeply from the secondary top Bellevista. 
The cord of our friends, led by Andi, is already looking ahead ... 
... but one soon to follow. 
The Fortezza edge (= the castle, seen from here, we understand why it is so called) and behind the Bellavista. 
... and we follow closely. 
Gradually, the terrain becomes less steep, the main difficulties are behind us. 
is admired for the last time this beautiful ridge. 
Full view of the edge Fortezza. 
Above us, a wild world of rock and ice fills the skyline. Seen on the Piz Bernina ... 
We walk without crampons on the glacier (here: the Pers glacier that joins the glacier Morteratsch). 
We feel humbled by such a natural spectacle. 
Even if the glacier has left a lot of feathers in recent years, extended its still considerable. 
We cross the glacier to the extreme tip of her tongue. Then we will win the Morteratsch station in half an hour. We
we exchange email addresses and promise to send pictures. We even have plans for the year Next: yes, the circuit of the Berner Oberland 4000m, it would be great, right? ...
circuit Bernina pus gave me the greatest pleasures! At all levels (visual impressions, pleasures climbers, company, guides, etc..), It was a great success.
