24.09.2008: Kandersteg - Oeschinensee
usual travel by train through the Ardennes, Luxembourg and Alsace. In Bern, I met Severin Leven, my fellow German, with whom I cross the Bernina in July. It comes down to Kandersteg where we bought some supplies. Ascent known (as done previous year ) to Oeschinensee, 1578m. We spend the night at Berghaus am Oeschinensee .
09/25/2008: Oeschinensee - Frundschnür - Blümlisalphütte
Before boarding the Blümlisalphütte, we decide to tour the famous Via Oeschinensee Frundschnür. The keeper the hostel did not advise because of the time little unstable but the desire is too great! First, you go in the direction of the Fründenhütte.
At the altitude of 1936m, we take a small road left towards Frundschnür.
The Frundschnür Virelles is a narrow wall that crosses over the Oeschinensee. In some places, the road is poorly marked and 20cm wide crosses breathtaking places to 400m above the lake. 
Despite the fog, the atmosphere is great. Fortunately, the weather stays dry. 
Once the Frundschnür finished, we began the long climb to the Hohtürli, 2778m, via the alpine Unter-unfriendly and Oberbärgli. The fog is very dense and it cools down mercilessly. Too bad, it is supposed to pass near the snout of Blümlisalp but we do not see anything. Once at the pass, the road to Blümlisalphütte, 2834m, turns out to be completely covered with snow. Thanks to the ubiquitous cairns, we find the right path for the shelter, where we are warmly welcomed with a hot chocolate which was added a little liquor. 
End of afternoon meeting with Albert Brunner. I am happy to have found a nice guide with whom I am leaving now for the third consecutive year in the mountains (2007: Balmhorn / Tschingellochtighorn , 2006: Bergell ). 
We taste the wine bottle taken from the valley (!). Behind us, a group of Belgian Limburg is planning to march tomorrow that will lead them to Gspaltenhornhütte. We will expect the same ride but first to climb Blümlisalphorn! 26/09/2008: Blümlisalphütte - Blümlisalphorn - Blümlisalphütte - Hohtürli - Gamchi - Gspaltenhornhütte (PD)
Early start very early: it is here in the Western Alps! 
We feel that the day will be extraordinary: it stops snowing, not a cloud in the sky ... 
... because we have the chance to participate in a show of natural beauty: it lies above a sea of clouds! In the distance, the Blümlisalphütte, and left the Hohtürli and the twin peaks of Kiental Schwarzhorn, 2785m. 
The two Swiss climbers parties after we have gone before us in the meantime. Before them, the beautiful north face Blümlisalphorn, 3661m. The top black on the right is Ufem Stock, 3221m. 
The trace on the glacier is very well done and deftly avoids the many crevices. 
A nice little downhill takes us to the foot of Rothornsattel, 3178m, located between Blümlisalphorn and Blümlisalp Rothore, 3297m. The two Swiss are already at the neck. 
The rise seems steep, but Albert is providing as usual. 
View towards the top of steep Ufem Stock, which separates the two parts of the glacier Blümlisalp. 
I'm truly in my element here, despite the intense cold. 
Moment great to climb: one sees the perfect summit of the Eiger, one of the most beautiful mountains in the Alps. 
Then we do the climb Rothorn. The bergschrund lets himself pass without difficulty and slopes of 35 ° following does not Stopping. Cervical was this great view of the beautiful Doldenhorn, 3638m and Galletgrat, above the clouds. Right, the Wildstrubel 3243m. 
Small break the neck. We can already see on the far left but the five hundred yards that separate us from this goal are prestigious hards. The rock of the north-eastern edge is not difficult (II) but needs to wear spikes because everything is icy. In addition, in the rock strata are facing down which does not ease the climb. On the picture you can see the Swiss strung across the snow slope from left to right to get on the edge quite right. 
The terrain is very difficult and treacherous: Albert assures us with the help of metal poles installed by local guides. Before the Blümlisalphorn was among the most dangeureses mountains of Switzerland, just behind the Matterhorn and the Jungfrau! 
All this does not seem to harm the good spirits of Severin. 
The end of the ridge is in sight. 
breathtaking view towards the Col Rothorn, behind which stands the rugged mass of Blümlisalp Rothorn. 
What atmosphere! In the foreground, left, Wildi Frau, 3259m. At right, Blümlisalpsattel, 3133m, and the north-eastern edge of the Wyss Frau. Behind the Schilthorn 2970m, the Butler, 3193m, and Gspaltenhorn, 3436m, we intend to climb the next day! Basically, the Berner Voralpen with Schwarzhorn, 2928m, and on the other side of the valley of Grindelwald, Wetterhorn, Eiger and Mönch. 
small snack before climbing the final snow ridge. 
Doldenhorn, Wildstrubel Tschingellochtighorn and Lohner. 
Latest encouragement ... 
Wildi Frau first. Behind, nice set of summits (Wild Andrist, Zahm Andrist, Hundshorn) culminating in the Schilthorn. 
's it! The last edge has presented little difficulty and after 3:45 climb from the refuge we walk the top of Blümlisalphorn. The beautiful ridge before us is beyond famous crossing of the massif Blümlisalp. Behind the wall of the Bernese Alps shows its north face, austere and cold. 
Focus on the trinity of Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau. 
Oh, what beautiful mountains! One of the most beautiful in the western Alps (Matterhorn with Grivola). 
Albert has often reached the summit, but seems happy to be there despite the bitter cold. Behind him, of Mischabel Weisshorn constitute the bottom of Valais. 
obligatory summit photo. 
Focus on Bietschhorn 3934m. Its northern edge is as perfect alpine goal. 
Picture winner of the cord. 
Albert tries to warm his hands a bit. Despite the sun, the wind blows hard enough and it curdled. 
But we continue: the scenery is so beautiful that we do pictures in all directions. Behind the Scopes Kanderfirn rise the less known but no less spectacular Lötschentaler Breithorn Nesthorn and 3785m, 3822m. 
Balmhorn , and Altels 3699m, 3629m, Doldenhorn behind. 
It's like an airplane ... 
Well, there it is really time to get off! You really pay attention ... 
... because the steep terrain does not make mistakes! 
But the snow is really very good and crampons bite well. 
We are rapidly losing altitude and we can see traces of the morning. 
Something tells me that the edge Gallet (from bottom right to a left oblique) Doldenhorn's not the pie ... This is another time a good lesson: this standard gauge (PD, G3) seems to be enough difficulty level. However, the edge Gallet, snow classical race is quotée G5 (AD / AD +). 
Back Rothorn neck. 
Severin and I are happy to have walked on top of a mountain as beautiful and glamorous. 
Small cons-up to the neck separating the two basins Blümlisalp glacier. 
The enormous differences in temperature are one of the characteristics which high mountain freezing cold at the top of Blümlisalp Drive t-shirt on the glacier. Severin stands behind the slope of Rothornsattel. 
The walk on the glacier is now easy. 
The dimensions are staggering. 
These are two of the three major peaks of the massif Blümlisalp: left, Morgenhorn, 3623m, and right, the Wyss Frau, 3650m (both G3 quotas or PD). 
zone cracked the glacier Blümlisalp. Progress in this kind of application to field constant attention: not too near the edge of it, jump beyond a hole there ... 
The extreme west of the Alpine chain: Wildstrubel Wildhorn and Oldenhorn. 
Finally, after 7 hours of walking we reach the Blümlisalphütte. 
It will take time to rest, relax, drink a Mixed ... 
View of refuge on the Frau and Blümlisalphorn Wyss. 
The Hohtürli, 2778m, and behind the Bernese pre-Alps (Schwarzhorn, 2785m; Bundstock, 2756 m; Dündenhorn, 2862m; Hundshorn, 2928m). 
The friendly Guards Blümlisalphütte. 
But there is still some way to go today, it's time to move on. 
The Blümlisalphütte and behind the Wildi Frau. 
From Hohtürli flight, the trail descends steeply into the Kiental. The top of the Wildi Frau away.
800m below, we cross a wilderness landscape: the stream of Gamchi, which originates in the glacier Gamchi, has created a deep gorge and surprising. 
Then it gradually goes back to the refuge. I feel very tired and lets go and Albert Severin, whose fitness is much better than mine. Finally, I arrive at the refuge Gspaltenhorn, dramatically situated beneath high walls rock. Far above us, we see the top of Gspaltenhorn. Its south-western edge is a series of steep towers (the "red teeth") and presents a considerable challenge, difficult (D, IV) and dangeurex for climbers. 
That end of that first great day in the mountains. The race lasted 12 hours, I feel really tired. 
The surrounding mountains are spectacular (here: the Morgenhorn). 
View on the south side of Butler. 
Despite the advanced season, the shelter is full to bursting. You should know that it is strategically located between the collar and Hohtürli Sefinafurgga, 2612m, two high-point of the famous "Bärentrek. It will be noted that there clearly more hikers than climbers. 
Albert was always a good appetite! 
After lunch, we go watch the spectacular sunset. But I'm off soon, I need sleep and I get into the dormitory. Here, I have not 5 minutes before going to sleep like a stone, despite the noise coming from just below ! 27/09/2008: Gspaltenhornhütte - Gspaltenhorn - Gspaltenhornhütte - Gamchi - Griesalp (AD-)
We are the first to stand and lunch. It is clear that we are alone in Gspaltenhorn today. 
We leave around 6am and climb steep slopes towards our first goal of the day, Bütlassesattel, 3020m. 
Once a forgettable spectacle awaits us: the valleys of Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald, covered by a thick layer of clouds, separated by the ridge and Lauberhorn Männlichen, and overhung by the series of the most spectacular north face of the Alps (Wetterhorn, Eiger, Mönch, Jungfrau and co.). 
We have a short break but our eyes are toward the rest of the race. 
Morgenhorn and Wildi Frau. 
Albert, "Wanderer über dem Nebelmeer" (from CD Friedrich). 
The Schilthorn Piz Gloria, 2969m. Fans of James Bond, you will be happy ! 
On the hill, we are still in the shadows ... 
... but these are the first rays of sunlight which warms us. 
In turn, you get photographed in front of the splendor of the Bernese Alps. 
last photo, and then we continue our journey. After a bit steep snow slope, we must go through a series of small towers, also known as "Leiterngrat. 
The terrain is not very difficult, but requires a lot of attention because snow and very exposed. From the top of the last turn, we see the result of the edge: First, we will descend to the gap between Leiterngrat and upper edge of the northwest, then we will rise up Please until the "Böser Tritt," which we will climb with ropes fixed before reaching the highest point via a steep snow ridge. 
Descent into the breach by a chimney equipped with fixed ropes (II).
escalation contentrée with spikes. Below, we see the path of our predecessors.
Severin seems to splurge!
In the breach, the flanks of the towering Morgenhorn and Wildi Frau attract attention.
Then you climb easy ground before hitting the wall nearly vertical "Böser Tritt", equipped with fixed ropes.
Albert goes first and then assures us. Frankly, it's not pie, it must be hoisted by force of arms and feet in cleats.
It's beautiful, spectacular, but it's also very stiff here.
In the foreground, the Butler, which is difficult climbing this slope (AD +), and in the background, the pre-Alps.
Once at the top of the cliff, we feel that the summit is near. The views down the valley become dizzy. Occasionally I have problems with a loose spike that: there are better places you can tell! Later, it turns out that the brackets were not suited to my shoes.
Eiger, Mönch, Jungfrau, Rottalhorn, Gletscherhorn, and Ebnefluh Mittaghorn.
The terrain is very, very committed, probably the hardest I've already traveled. The main summit is quite right.
splendid panorama: in the foreground, the edge is the Morgenhorn. Behind the glacier map Kanderfirn and Balmhorn, and finally, the majestic chain of the Valais Alps (Weisshorn, Dent Blanche, Grand Combin) and Mont Blanc.
After all this work, I think eventually reach the top, but alas, there are still a few tens of meters to go. I feel very tired, I still have not digested the efforts of the previous day.
Finally, after six hours (!) Ascension (for normal conditions, four hours is sufficient), we reach the summit of Gspaltenhorn, 3436m. For a while, I thought that Albert would take us down before, but as time is very stable, he sees no problems in our slowness.
is the summit the most difficult I've already done is clear. I almost forget the views épostuflantes (Here the Mönch and the Jungfrau Rottal side).
Gletscherhorn, 3983m, Ebnefluh, 3962m, and Mittaghorn, 3892m. Left behind, the Grünhorn, 4000m virtually unknown (4043m).
13x4000m are visible in this photo: Castor, Pollux, Roccia Nera Breithornzwillinge, Breithorn central Breithorn west Weisshorn Bishorn, Zinalrothorn, Matterhorn, Obergabelhorn, Hérens Dent and Dent Blanche.
Jorasses, Mont Blanc, Balmhorn, and Altels Morgenhorn.
A mini-ridge Bianco!
The valleys of Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald. In the foreground, the village of Gimmelwald and Mürren.
For Albert also is a first: the Gspaltenhorn is a rare high peaks of the Bernese he had not yet climbed.
After a short photo stop, we begin the difficult descent. Severin took the lead, Albert assured. The edge is not in condition, it must be very careful. In addition, there was taking too want to look down here. I never felt too small to face the mountain, there is over 1800 meters of a vacuum that descends straight into the valley Sefinen.
The Bütlassesattel is still far away. Occasionally, I make small slips, the concentration begins to fail me, one of my crampons falls, and physical fatigue develops. 
Albert makes us move faster now, more time to de-escalate slowly, it brings us down. There was no time to take pictures. Arrived in the small breach, it immediately goes back to the chimney leading to the series of small towers.
We finally time to take a break and admire the edge we just climb and descend.
Severin is eager to climb.
The Holy Trinity of the Oberland. We spend hours contemplating the details, the structures of these walls as high as the sky.
Gletscherhorn, and Ebnefluh Mittaghorn.
Gimmelwald and Mürren, 1419m, 1638m.
Albert We will closely but it is with great sorrow that I come back to the last hurdle, bienqu'équipé fixed ropes.
The subsequent descent is only a formality, we take the direct route through the snowy slopes and are fun to "ski".
arrived at the shelter, I take joy and pleasure with beer offered to me by Albert. This race lasted 9:30 ET is probably the hardest I've ever undertaken. My feet are stewed, not every intense pain through me (later j'apercevrai the nails on both big toes are full of blood and lose them later).
Severin seems to splurge! 
In the breach, the flanks of the towering Morgenhorn and Wildi Frau attract attention. 
Then you climb easy ground before hitting the wall nearly vertical "Böser Tritt", equipped with fixed ropes. 
Albert goes first and then assures us. Frankly, it's not pie, it must be hoisted by force of arms and feet in cleats. 
It's beautiful, spectacular, but it's also very stiff here. 
In the foreground, the Butler, which is difficult climbing this slope (AD +), and in the background, the pre-Alps. 
Once at the top of the cliff, we feel that the summit is near. The views down the valley become dizzy. Occasionally I have problems with a loose spike that: there are better places you can tell! Later, it turns out that the brackets were not suited to my shoes. 
Eiger, Mönch, Jungfrau, Rottalhorn, Gletscherhorn, and Ebnefluh Mittaghorn. 
The terrain is very, very committed, probably the hardest I've already traveled. The main summit is quite right. 
splendid panorama: in the foreground, the edge is the Morgenhorn. Behind the glacier map Kanderfirn and Balmhorn, and finally, the majestic chain of the Valais Alps (Weisshorn, Dent Blanche, Grand Combin) and Mont Blanc. 
After all this work, I think eventually reach the top, but alas, there are still a few tens of meters to go. I feel very tired, I still have not digested the efforts of the previous day. 
Finally, after six hours (!) Ascension (for normal conditions, four hours is sufficient), we reach the summit of Gspaltenhorn, 3436m. For a while, I thought that Albert would take us down before, but as time is very stable, he sees no problems in our slowness. 
is the summit the most difficult I've already done is clear. I almost forget the views épostuflantes (Here the Mönch and the Jungfrau Rottal side). 
Gletscherhorn, 3983m, Ebnefluh, 3962m, and Mittaghorn, 3892m. Left behind, the Grünhorn, 4000m virtually unknown (4043m). 
13x4000m are visible in this photo: Castor, Pollux, Roccia Nera Breithornzwillinge, Breithorn central Breithorn west Weisshorn Bishorn, Zinalrothorn, Matterhorn, Obergabelhorn, Hérens Dent and Dent Blanche. 
Jorasses, Mont Blanc, Balmhorn, and Altels Morgenhorn. 
A mini-ridge Bianco! 
The valleys of Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald. In the foreground, the village of Gimmelwald and Mürren. 
For Albert also is a first: the Gspaltenhorn is a rare high peaks of the Bernese he had not yet climbed. 
After a short photo stop, we begin the difficult descent. Severin took the lead, Albert assured. The edge is not in condition, it must be very careful. In addition, there was taking too want to look down here. I never felt too small to face the mountain, there is over 1800 meters of a vacuum that descends straight into the valley Sefinen. 
The Bütlassesattel is still far away. Occasionally, I make small slips, the concentration begins to fail me, one of my crampons falls, and physical fatigue develops. 
Albert makes us move faster now, more time to de-escalate slowly, it brings us down. There was no time to take pictures. Arrived in the small breach, it immediately goes back to the chimney leading to the series of small towers. 
We finally time to take a break and admire the edge we just climb and descend. 
Severin is eager to climb. 
The Holy Trinity of the Oberland. We spend hours contemplating the details, the structures of these walls as high as the sky. 
Gletscherhorn, and Ebnefluh Mittaghorn. 
Gimmelwald and Mürren, 1419m, 1638m. 
Albert We will closely but it is with great sorrow that I come back to the last hurdle, bienqu'équipé fixed ropes. Last Gspaltenhorn look at ...
... before arriving at the neck of the Butler, late difficulties.
The subsequent descent is only a formality, we take the direct route through the snowy slopes and are fun to "ski". 
arrived at the shelter, I take joy and pleasure with beer offered to me by Albert. This race lasted 9:30 ET is probably the hardest I've ever undertaken. My feet are stewed, not every intense pain through me (later j'apercevrai the nails on both big toes are full of blood and lose them later). 
We admire the spectacle of the long snout of Gamchi. Then, from Albert in a run. We slowly descend after him. As if that was not enough that day, seven kilometers and two and a half hours will be needed to get the car to Albert. 13h race ... an end worthy of a great season in the mountains (1x4000m, 9x3000m).
