The majestic Monte Rosa has ceased to amaze me for several years: fantastic vision from the airport of Milan, the sight of his face is gigantissime from the Col du Monte Moro goal that thrills from the 4000 Valley of Saas. It was so obvious that I feel the urge one day to explore its peaks, ridges and glaciers.
last minute decision, I chose the offer "6 Viertausender im Monte Rosa Massif" of the Swiss mountaineering school Höhenfieber . Course somewhat different from the classic "spaghetti-round," because it is easier and avoiding large pieces such as Castor and Eisnase. That said, by-then I told myself that I might have aspired to be a little more from the technical level of racing and my own capabilities: long glacial bit steep slopes, no climbing sections, .. . Nevertheless, a great stay in an extra-ordinary.
Arrival in Zermatt the day before, via Luxembourg, Metz, Basel, Bern and the Lötschberg. The height of the peaks considered imposing a good acclimatization, I plan to Oberrothorn which, with its 3414m, has a good entry into the field. The center of Zermatt, we have this classical view on the mountain that everyone came to see here.
ascent by funicular underground Sunnegga (2288m), then the cable car up Blauherd (2571m). As a small fitness test, I decided not to continue Unterrothorn (3103m) by cable car, but to continue my journey on foot.
Even if the path itself is not interesting (to a large ski run), the views surrounding the 4000 (here: Pollux, Castor and Rocca Neria) worth of output.
left, the Matterhorn and Dent d'Herens. Right, the station Unterrothorn.
interesting initiative, the "Weg zur Freiheit" or "Path to Freedom" describes "the evolution of nature and men with sculptures in glass and steel."
Arriving at the top of the Oberrothorn (path non-descript and very easy), an immense panorama of the mountains around Zermatt awaits: 360 ° of happiness! I am extremely happy with my fitness and I managed to overcome those who have taken the same gondola as me but who continued until the station!
Red eye, cause he about me and my "exploits"?
begin the description of the panorama by the two giants of Mischabel: the Dom (4505m) and Täschhorn (4491m), really impressive here.
Then the Alphubel (4210m), I had the pleasure of climbing two years ago. Here, we present the Rotgrat (AD, III).
Focus on Allalinhorn, 4027m, and its normal route, made in July 2005.
The Rimpfischhorn (4199m) is a summit that I lust for some time. But I expect to be sure of my physical abilities (6am to climb 1600m vertical drop) and technical (50 ° slopes, climbing-III) before entering this large piece. At right is the Strahlhorn (4190m), which I also did two years ago, and the cute Adlerhorn (3988m).
the middle, the Cima di Jazzi (3803m), the source of Findelgletscher, 8km long.
Ah, the purpose of my trip is in sight! The Signalkuppe and Zumsteinspitze, hidden by the higher Nordend (4609m) and Dufourspitze (4634m), the program will be in a few days. I am very impressed by the beauty of solid and that of Lyskamm (4527m).
The imposing Dent Blanche (4357m) on the left. The way "normal" (AD-) of the Obergabelhorn (4061m), first mounted at the top of the Wellenkuppe (3903m) and then follows the dangerous north-eastern edge.
After explaining to a national overview of the country of the Rising Sun (they are numerous in the vicinity), this photograph myself face to face with the Matterhorn. 
The next day, the weather is bad mine it rains incessantly and visibility is zero qausi. We head to Kleinmatterhorn, wait an hour in the cafeteria, and finally decided to abandon the first summit of the program, Breithorn (4164m). Too bad! Even if this summit is the easiest of 4000, it must have taken a day or in the normal way, either in the faisaint (half-) crossing.
arrived at the pass, we desencordons. 
We follow part of the Tour du Mont Rose. Below, we see the Gran Lago, partially covered with ice. 
Weather is not terrible, but it does not rain. 
At the other side of the valley, or the imposing Grauhaupt Grigia Testa (3315m), welcomes us. 
We arrive at the first mountain pastures. 
This descent is really endless. In total, there will be + / - 2000m altitude! 
Game clouds above the wild valley Ayas. 
We take a break. Benno inquired about the right way. 
Ayas Valley seems very attractive here. We are above the village of Saint-Jacques and a wonderful family walks region opens up. 
is the lowest point of our crossing, the houses of the hamlet of Fiery (1898 m). 
A cons-mounted + / -200 m is to be done before ... 
... arrive at the lovely Rifugio Resy (2072m). These ancient alpine huts were converted into refuge in the service of many hikers doing the Tour du Mont Rose. The atmosphere is really hippy, ambient music and we live Oasis acceuillent! 
The atmosphere is slightly watered in the evening. Vino rosso The is really excellent! 
After lunch, we attack a huge bottle of grappa. Fortunately, my conscience "sports" told me to stop in time and bedtime. 
The next day the storm clouds have spun. Hey, do I have to finally give reason Dreamer 4000 (D) maintains that the Val d'Aosta, "it is always beautiful"? 
We take an easy road that will lead to Colle di Bettaforca. 
As in June, I salute the Gran Paradiso. This magnificent 4000 is tops on the list of "to do in the coming years." 
Again, man has found it necessary to plant chairlift towers. Obviously, one can not deny local people additional income in the winter, but I am sure that this beautiful valley Ayas did not need that to attract people. 
cymbal crash to arrival at Colle Bettaforco (2672m)! We see, from left to right, the Ludwigshöhe (4341m), or the Schwarzhorn Corno Nero (4321m), the insignificant Balmenhorn (4167m), La Pyramide Vincent (4215m) and Punta Giordano (4046m). 
I am happy to be there, but eager to tread the snowy slopes. 
After a downhill chairlift and gondola (and yes, I'm a real slacker!), We arrive in the Val di Gressoney. Time seems to change ... 
After a further climb up the gondola Passo di Salati (2936m), the conditions become difficult. An unrelenting wind whipped our faces and it snows lightly. 
view the clothing of the Italian front of me, it does not seem worried in the slightest degree. 
Short break in Punta Indren (3260m), driven by wind. 
Crossing the Glacier Indren proves to be a beautiful but simple walk in the snow. 
Just before the Rifugio Mantova (3498m), the path becomes steeper. 
We go fast and try to get warm. Outside is the storm. 
This cozy refuge has one big disadvantage: the toilets are in a small hut near the main building. Floor of my hut slippers, I try to make the trip, but almost breaks my mouth. It is useless, he'll have to get used to the big jacket and shoes to go out. 
Self-portrait dumb. I can hardly stand. 
The night goes wonderfully. The next morning, the sky is blue metallic but the almost wind blowing as strong as ever. At bottom, the East Lyskamm (4527m) and Passo del Naso (4100m). 
In such circumstances, our guide Benno prefer to wait until the wind is weakening a bit. We see descending climbers, which encourages us much. 
View of Castor (4228m). 
The sun tries to warm the icy world, but today there will be very cold. 
Just 150m above us, the very modern Rifugio Gnifetti (3647m) blends into the wall. It is surmounted by the Pyramid Vincent is very similar to Alphubel here. 
Pending a decision of the guide, we spend a little time around the refuge. 
The panorama over the Val Gressoney is striking. 
Here, I learn for the first time, what is a storm at high altitudes. 
Finally, the tide seems to fall back, and we begin the climb towards the Pyramid Vincent. 
The glacier is very steep and seems cracked. We see non-climbers roped together: I do not want condemn their "behavior" ultimately everyone is responsible for his actions. 
In the fog, you can see the Rifugio Gnifetti. 
A somewhat steeper slope leads to the summit of the Pyramid Vincent (4215m). 4000 was a very easy, but given the circumstances, it is almost a miracle to find it! 
Within minutes of time, we are invaded by clouds. It is very cold, and we left the summit very quickly. 
proud of having my 6th summit of 4000 m. 
Basically the Balmenhorn (4167m) with the bivouac Felice Giordano. It quickly becomes clear that we must abandon the idea of climbing the small neighboring vertices. The storm altitude presents us with a difficult choice: Grenzgletscher descend to the refuge of the Monte Rosa and thus "screwed up" half our journey, or go towards the Capanna Margherita and the risk of getting 'stuck' of the storm. 
Benno our guide to make a decision. 
The Lyskamm begins to cover. 
dark clouds seem to rise. The decision is made: as it takes time to get the beautiful Grenzgletscher (lots of cracks), we'll go to the shelter and spend the night. 
Benno gives us a break. I seem not to move forward because of deep snow and thin air. Again, as in the Thorung Alphubel and Nepal, I have to account for the fact that above an altitude of + / - 4200m, it's hard to follow. Inability or lack of acclimatization Physiologically, I still do not know. 
Fortunately, I'm not alone. My climbing partners suffer too. 
Enfint arrived! It's so cold outside that I have ice in your nostrils. Gradually, we dégelons. I'm so thirsty (the hose from my camel bag froze) I order a beer. Bad decision, because she goes directly to the head. I do not feel terrible and I decided to go get some rest. 
the evening, I feel better and have an appetite. We are fifteen climbers in the hut, all anxious to know if the weather will improve tomorrow. 
We keep a good mood. Some write a page in their journals, others (like me) throw themselves on the owl sanctuary library or spend time playing a little Sudoku . Too bad the guards of the refuge are not very nice ... 
I spent a horrible night. I sleep very little and I really feel the altitude. The next day I terribly headache. Two Aspros taken one after another come to hunt the demon of altitude sickness ... Looking outside, we find that the wind has hardly abated. 
The view from the balcony is spectacular. We see in the distance, the plain of the Po 
seventh summit of 4000 + in your pocket. But how will I do the day I am in my eleventh? 
The balcony is just above an abyss of gigantic dimensions. I think that time is the famous face is 2200m high, but it seems to me that this is the southeast wall. 
We willingly spend hours contemplating this beautiful gazebo, but the cold and the wind pushing us to go faster in the shelter. 
Occasionally, clouds reveal a part of the landscape. Here we have a clear view on Zumsteinspitze (4563m) and behind the highest peak of the Swiss Confederation, the Swiss International (4634m). 
Life is hard to 4554m. 
After an hour of waiting, he finally decided to begin the descent to Zermatt. 
They let us down along the steep slope just below the refuge 
Once everyone gathered, we're strung together with a German and dives into the mist. 
conditions are hardly ideal for a glacier cracked down, but we rely on the guidance of faculty and Benno German guide. 
The snow is good and you meet just cracks at the top of the glacier. 
We are about 3700m before ... 
... cross the key passage of the descent of Grenzgletscher: a rocky passage over huge crevasses, followed by crossing a steep slope where the guide is to cut steps. 
End difficulties, it is time to eat and drink something. 
The glacial landscape, composed of crevasses and cracks, is magnificent. 
By 3200, we finally move out of the clouds. 
Arrival at Obere Plattje. Here, we go up on the moraine and we can desencorder, remove staples, gaiters, etc.. 
Below, we see the Monte Rosa-Hütte (2795m). 
But we will not stop at the shelter, we still cross the gigantic Gornergletscher to do. 
Here Gornergletscher. Although he left many of its feathers in recent years, the ice remains huge and is of exceptional beauty. 
Path the glacier is marked with small flags. There is no danger to fall into a crevasse, it would almost throw herself into it. 
Gornergletscher Once crossed, a cons-up brings us to Rotenboden below the Riffelhorn (2928m). 
Meanwhile, behind our backs, the Lyskamm was unveiled. What a wonderful mountain! The "men all-eater" (so named because of the many accidents that it was the scene) presents its northeast wall, a thousand meters high. 
Finally, the classical view on Nordend, Dufourspitze, and the Lysjoch Lyskamm. 
The Gornergrat train takes us back to Zermatt. I am super happy with my stay, although a small taste of "too little" and "too hard" comes to disturb me in mind. Finally, I tell myself I might as well be happy to pass all these moments, rich in emotions, in these mountains that I love. It is true that I have become more difficult, quite happy with the "normal", that is to say, the ballads, small peaks easier, etc.. But I'm sure this is part of a phase, a discovery of my ability and that the day will come very soon when I will be happy to again be just there.
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