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08/08/2010: Belgium - Switzerland - Andermatt, 1447m

After a first ride quite successful early July, I found myself, a month later, again in the Alps of Uri. This small township in the middle of the Confederation has a network ( www.top-of-uri.ch ) very full shelters and trails at altitude, as well as some beautiful mountains, and therefore has enough material for plans, maps and plans yet!

My output high-mountain this year would take place in two parts because I foresaw, According to Uri, returning once again in the Valais and on an errand with my guide Albert.

But first Uri: After a car journey without incident or plugs, I arrive late afternoon at Andermatt resort at 1440m in height and in a very central location at the crossroads three important Alpine passes (Gotthard, Furka, Oberalp). I pitch my little tent camping Local fairly basic, will eat a little bit, still do a little walk and go to sleep early for tomorrow promises to be hard!

09/08/2010: Oberalppass, 2046m - Pazolastock, 2740m - Rossbodenstock, 2836m - Parlet, 2767m - Piz Tuma, 2784m - Piz Badus, 2928m - Piz Tagliola, 2708m - Lolenpass, 2399m - Camon Maighels, 2314ù - Oberalppass (II T5)

Reveille 5:30: brrrr, it is confirmed, it's cold in Andermatt (5 ° C), even in midsummer. It's not for nothing that in winter, snow falls in abundance in this area. Half an hour later I'm on the road to Col d'Oberalp as I reach another half-hour later. It is not very spectacular, the pass, which is the liaison between the cantons of Uri and Graubünden, but I'm just happy to be there.

I intend to make the crossing of the six peaks located between the collars and Oberalp Lolene, and my first goal of the day, the gentle Pazolastock, appears against a blue sky.

But I have more eyes to the spectacular peaks across the valley to the left, Brunnenstock, and Bächenstock 2888m, 2944m, and amidst the Schneehühnerstock, 2773m.

the right of the Fellilücke, 2478m, very strong neck, I see very strong profile Piz Tiarms, 2918m, and the elongated ridge of Crispalt, 3078m. It's a magical moment: it is still early, I'm all alone, it's nice!

As you gain altitude, the view expands dramatically, the beautiful green valley of the Reuss opens before me (Andermatt is still partially in shadow), the Furka Pass, deals Valais, is the lowest point of the ridge at the bottom of the valley and snow-capped peaks are dreaming (left, the Gross Muttenhorn, which remains relatively small with 3099m, but here are the true kings Galenstock , 3586m and my goal in two days, and behind the Finsteraarhorn, 4274m, and Aletschhorn, 4195m).

Pazolastock Near the top of a former barracks of the Swiss army is pretty quiet (this is the goal!). Behind, I can see already after the race: Rossbodenstock wide right and the beautiful Piz Badus at the other end of the ridge.

Cairn at the top of Pazolastock, 2740m. Behind the peaks of Gross Schijen, Brunnenstock, Schijenstock, and Bächenstock Schneehühnerstock.

Surselva, or the Rhine Valley earlier ...

First Summit of the year, although modest, but still!

View to a region that I am no longer unknown since early July: Tierberg, 3447m, Gwächtenhorn, 3420m, Sustenhorn, and Fleckistock 3503m, 3416m, in the background. Before, the fabulous Salbitschijen, 2981m, and Rorspitzli, 3220m.

The peaks of the Bernese Alps.

breathtaking view on Andermatt. The campsite is on the left of the village. At right, the road bends to the Oberalp.

Arriving at the top of Rossbodenstock, whose overview on the broader still: Chastelhorn, 2973m, and Gemsstock, 2961m.

Until now, the ride itself was very easy but it is only the beginning of the voyage. The ridge to the Piz Badus presents the first major climb of the day. In the descent of Rossbodenstock, I see another hiker who will soon join me. At the Älpetlilücke, 2698m, I joined. Hans is a Swiss and an excellent walker. He predicted the same tour as me (at least until Badus Piz), and when I offered to pass (it goes much faster than me), he tells me to be happy to have met someone and decide to continue the journey together.

view the Parlet, 2767m, and Piz Badus. Here we must seek his own path, nothing is marked, there are cairns over here and there, nothing else. In short, this kind of land is new to me, but I love it!

Climbing without problems (I), a small break at the top of Parlet.

The edge we just climbed.
For cons, the descent of Parlet, a corridor in the western flank (between the top of Parlet, left, and Constable, right), before joining the ridge leading to the Piz Tuma, is another class. Here it is de-escalation quietly, pay attention, especially not slip because you may end up hundreds of feet below. Everything is going smoothly but I'm happy not having to face such challenges alone!

Passage spectacular ...

... before reaching the summit of Piz Tuma, 2784m.

heroic pose :-)!

While the Berner Oberland never ceases to amaze ...

... my eye goes to a corner of Switzerland remained relatively unknown to me: the Glarner Alpen. This massif contains some very alpine natural wonders and remained spared from mass tourism, lack of peaks beyond 4000m oblige! Here we see the Oberalpstock, 3328m, and the highest summit of the massif, Tödi, peaking at 3614m. I feel that I will venture into these parts then in years to come!

Following the hike: the difficulties diminish after Piz Tuma. Edge easy block, but rather a test of fitness. Finally, we reached the summit of Piz Badus, the highest peak of the day at 2928m.

An indescribable panorama presents itself: Valais, the Bernese, Grisons, Ticino, Glarus, Uri, and beautiful peaks. Focus on the glaciers and peaks of Val Maighels: Piz Blas (behind), 3019m, Piz Ravetsch, 3007m, and Piz Borel, 2951m.

Half an hour of well deserved rest, and then it's time to continue. Hans had thought to finish his trek to the summit of Piz Badus, but as I intend to continue the voyage, he decided to accompany me. That following the edge!

large blocks, nothing special yet.

But the south ridge of Piz Badus reserved us a pleasant surprise: it has to cross a bit of edge and we do not see very well how to do it without making a point. The solution consists of a lateral crossing the western flank of the ridge.

Land shocking and high risk of falling! The side that we must cross is not very stable, it's really steep and the biggest fall ensured if we fall. It stays focused and arrive without major problems after this unexpected difficulty.

Ridge south and southeast, Piz Badus, since the last summit of the crossing, Piz Tagliola, 2708m.

Driven by a herd of goats (!), We quickly begin the descent towards the Lolenpass. We stop often to enjoy the beautiful scenery of the magnificent Val Maighels.

At the Lolenpass, 2399m, we reach the trails. Crossing the eastern flank of Piz Tagliola, we reach the valley. What a beauty! The Urlaun Lai, 2248m, and Carin Lai, 2255m, are dominated by the refuge Maighels, 2314m, and Piz Cavradi, 2614m. Behind the Crispalt, 3076m and the Piz Nair, 3059m.

I decided to give me a beer at the cozy refuge Maighels. I also bid farewell to my friend Hans, who decides to continue until Cavradi Piz. The pause makes me feel good, the landscape around me is really fantastic (lakes, snow, small peaks in short, a perfect place to spend quality time with family) and I'm glad the six additional peaks that I could now add to my little list of "vanity !

the way back to pull a bit long at the end but will offer beautiful views of the Oberalpstock. Arrival at Oberalppass after a hike of 9.30!

08/10/2010: Sidelenbach, 2280m - Sidelenhütte, 2708m - Chli Bielenhorn, 2940m, via Schildkrötengrat (4b/A1) - Sidelenhütte

After a good night's sleep, I feel quite recovered from the efforts of the day, what is good sign! At eight o'clock, I meet my guide at the station in Andermatt, where we had an appointment. His name is Christian Aschwanden, normally works for Rock and Powder organization rather specializes in off-piste skiing, but also outings to the mountaineering school Montanara. We met and we are en route to the Furka Pass. Stop at the parking Sidelenbach, 2280m, then climb Sidelenhütte the quiet, 2708m, still familiar to me last year.

Dear reader of this blog, the quality of the granite massifs of Mont Blanc or Bergell is proverbial and well known, but we forget too often that of massive Furka. We return here in the paradise of high mountains in which novice and experienced climber can find ways to his liking. We retain the names of Furkahorn, Galenstock, Bielenhorn Kamel, etc.. Pictured behind Christian, one sees the Gross Bielenhorn, 3210m, and the small Kamel, 2900.

I came here to do climbing, and that's what we gonna do! After filing our case superfluous at the shelter, we are heading towards the start of Schildkrötengrat nearby, well-known path leading to the summit of Chli Bielenhorn, 2940m, and is an excellent entry into the field. The first pitch was completely blocked by a group of children (!) A section IF, we therefore decided to circumvent the right length to reach the first stint.

Furkahorn Gross, 3169m, and Sidelenhorn, 3217m. Before the tower folichonnen called Hannibal, 2882m.

We are progressing very well and leave quickly roped CAS behind us. I enjoy myself tremendously: I always had a soft spot for mountain climbing and route it confirmed today. It escalation and de-escalation of small gendarmes, I pass without problems difficulties (ranging from 3 to 4b/A1 in the key passage) in big shoes (the granite seems to stick!), And remains unimpressed by the increasing gap in beneath my feet.

overview of the beginning of the ridge. Below, the Sidelenhütte.

Christian is a very good teacher. It gives me full of technical advice in relation to progress in a field like this, I learn something about the construction of relay belay behind a rock, technical hands and feet, etc..

The Schildkrötengrat, intermediate portion. The climber in the middle sits below a rock shaped like a turtle (hence the name of the edge). On the left, this gauze (250m).

Arriving at the top of Chli Bielenhorn.

The escalation of this summit has given me a lot of fun! I'm not too bad in this field, this dream is over. We decide to go down Untere in Bielenlücke, 2893m, and take a dip in the gardens of climbing around the refuge to learn the technique reminders.

Overview of the ridge on which we can see climbers.

Schildkrötengrat The photo, taken during the descent of the Untere Bielenlücke.

I think, without exaggeration, there is a way to stay an entire week without getting bored in Sidelenhütte. We can make climbing, alpine racing, climbing garden, a beautiful hike (Nepali Highway) to the Albert-Heim hut, hut neighbor, etc..

While we do length after length in granite still excellent, you can enjoy the most spectacular view possible on Kamel, made famous by the pub now bloody well made Mammut .

view of the lower part of the Schildkrötengrat.

End of climbing school to 16h. It is now time to relax before the big climb tomorrow. We spent a very pleasant evening in this very nice shelter which is the Sidelenhütte.

11.08.2010: Sidelenhütte - Galenstock via SE-Sporn (PD +, 4a) - Sidelenhütte - Sidelenbach

Closure morning at 4:45. It starts up about 5:30. Objectof: Spur southeast Galenstock race that I missed last year due to bad weather. Unlike my first attempt, we take the left arm orographic Glacier Sidelen. It bypasses the cracked area from the right and quickly gaining altitude. To 3150m, climbing the spur itself begins. Behind Christian, the Obere Bielenlücke, 3248m, now accessible by a via ferrata .

Climbing involves some lengths not very difficult (some not in the Schildkrötengrat traveled the night before were much harsher) in an exquisite granite.

This wonderful climbing unfortunately ends much too soon after arrival at point 3365 in the southern edge Galenstock. Behind, the final snow ridge.

Above the clouds, across the peaks of the Bernese.

We Slippers spikes and continue the climb. Along the ridge, we pass impressive cornices ...

... which is still far away.

Three and a half hours after departure, they crowd the top of Galenstock, 3586m. I am very happy, it's always nice to try a mountain and get there eventually. Behind Tiefenstock, 3515m, Dammastock, 3630m, and Sustenhorn, 3503m.

We are not very long at the top, because the weather could spoil. Christian let me pass. Conservatively, I walk down the snowy slope that leads to the edge and the start recalls. Arrived at the rock, Christian passes to locate the exact point.

Six reminders later, we find ourselves at the bottom of the wall. Wow! it was extra, I'd never traveled like a drop in recall, but it went flawlessly.

Downhill fast (sometimes too fast, I slipped several times and have the opportunity to practice the techniques of falls in the mountains) by the right arm of the glacier Sidelen. The spur south-east is to the right of the image, the track point is between points P 3252 and P. 3365.

Here I find myself on familiar ground. We pass below the tower Hannibal, on which the Swiss Funny installed a bench and "the highest bus stop in Switzerland" It seems they go up each year a new schedule!

The end is in sight of the glacier. Behind Witenwasserenstock, 3082m, Gross Leckihorn, 3068m, Stotzig Muttenhorn, Muttenhorn and Gross 3062m, 3099m.

were lucky with the weather, it stayed dry (too bad for those who were going to race the next day because you see he would do awful).

Last look at majestic and Sidelenhütte Galenstock. I love this area and I am already safe to return! Christian and I will also say goodbye: this is an excellent guide who gave me great confidence and I am sure to repeat trips with him.

08/12/2010: Andermatt - Furka - Kleines Furkahorn, 3026m (T4) - Furkapass - Brig - Visp - Gruben - Turtmannhütte, 2519m

The bad weather was announced, and it was beautiful and there. Rain during the night, luckily it is drier in the morning. I fold my stuff and handed me the way to the Furka Pass. Today, I intend to spend in the neighboring canton of Valais and hopefully make me a small peak current road, hoping it was not raining. Going up the numerous bends of the pass, I stop to this panoramic view over the valley of the Reuss. Before, the village of Realp and its golf course (!) Behind and Andermatt Oberalppass. The big top trapezoid on the right is the Rossbodenstock made 3 days ahead.

I park the car at the neck itself (2429m) and took the little path leading right to Furkastock, a small bump in the ridge southeast of Furkahorn Klein, my goal which I plan to make a go- return in 2 hours. Once at Furkastock and military installations, I decided to cross the east side of P. 2800 instead of following the path down to the right before climbing up switchbacks P. 2814m. Pff, I soon found myself in a nice scree track soon and I do nothing as the fog begins to rise. In P. 2814m, I found a path signposted blue / white leads me to the top of Klein Furkahorn, 3026m, nothing difficult to point en route.

No nice views today, it is useless to stay on the desolate summit, I start the fast descent. Once at P. 2814m, I decided to follow the stops to P. 2800 and then Furkastock and varying a little my way. Bad decision, because it starts to rain a very shortly thereafter. I soon completely soaked, I managed to lose my way because now completely in the clouds, the ground becomes slippery and a bit dangerous, in short, that damn little top that I thought added to my list of "conquests" I present a lot of difficulties. This is a true "national drache" I returned to Furka Pass after 3:30 walk!

Finally, I'm in a dry place! My original idea was to reach the Saas valley, but as usual another idea came to settle in my head. And if I rode in Barrhorn, the highest mountain for hikers in the Alps? This it's been on my list this one, plus its high altitude will allow me to better acclimatize. The decision is made, I put myself on the road. After descending Furka Pass, traversed the valley Goms through the towns of Brig and Visp, I can Turtmann, Gateway Valley Turtmann (or Turtmann). Going up this beautiful valley, so quiet and far from the major tourist resorts of the Valais, unfortunately it starts to rain again and it is sad that in an environment I park the car at the end of the paved road (Vorder Sänntum, 1901m) point of departure for the ascent the Turtmannhütte.

I choose a very nice little trail above the gorge Turtmann. To 2040m, I see a small dam, and the shelter itself (top right).

Behind the dam, at 2185m, a small artificial lake with no name. Glacier Turtmann, right, down to 2250m.

The beautiful trail cairns leads me after 2 hours walking to the shelter Turtmann, 2519m.

View of two small artificial lakes in the valley Turtmann. The peaks above are certainly very little visited and are therefore an excellent way for the adventurous hiker. We especially appreciated the elegant Meidhorn summit, 2875m.

It's cold and damp outside, and the same thing inside the shelter. For lack of oil, the piece to dry clothes is not heated, and wait almost total onscurité to turn out the lights. This surprise there someone I'm off at eight o'clock in the dorm?

08/13/2010: Turtmannhütte - Gasse, 2641m - Schöllijoch, 3343m - Inneres Barrhorn, 3583m - Ussers Barrhorn, 3610m - Schöllijoch - Turtmannhütte - Gruben - Visp - Saas Grund, 1559m

I wake up in a bad mood: the weather is still not very good and the shelter yet enjoying a very good reputation remains cold, clammy, devoid of light and atmosphere. I avoid all contact with other guests during breakfast and am the first out. I immediately put myself on the way to the Gasse. This dark hallway looks great from afar but I can assure you it's going very well (small path, steep course, but it is well supported by cables in place).

The Turtmannhütte away ...

... while on the other side of the valley, the clouds finally get up and leave this beautiful landscape to see where I came: in the foreground, the language of Brunegggletscher, and behind, left, Turtmanngletscher, topped by the Diablon Ladies, 3538m, and Diablons, 3609m.

Here it is: a 4000 finally in sight! The twin peaks of Bishorn emerge against a beautiful blue sky: the tip Burnaby, 4135m, left, and the main peak, 4153, right. I saw the roped amount at the top in the normal way: oh la la, I give a lot to be there, once you have tasted the air rarifié at 4000m, we want to return is like a drug.

But now I will content myself with secondary peaks in the area. Here, overlooking the glacier Scholl (I saw a few cracks) and Schöllihorn, 3499m.

It has snowed in altitude these days, I find myself in the snow from an altitude of 3100m.

2:30 After walking the j'atteinds Schöllijoch, 3343m. The landscape around me is white, which is not necessarily a disadvantage because up better in snow than in the fine scree. We can see two peaks Barrhorn and the path climbs, still clearly visible despite the snow.

I crossed the summit of Inners Barrhorn, 3583m, in the fog. Although I do occasionally look my way and avoid the steepest parts of traitors and made slippery by snow, I am confident and continue my path. Between the two peaks, magnificent view on the vertical cliff 300 meters high.

last steep climb (I still feel a little high), and here I am on top of Ussers Barrhorn, 3610m.

Official proof: I was at the top :-)

Although the view is not great (as harm), I take a good break and have a half- peak hour, all alone as I like. Then descend to the Schöllijoch, bypassing the Inneres Barrhorn. I find it very impressive alpine, this Barrhorn!

Superb vision: the top of Weisshorn, 4506m, and the upper part of the famous north ridge (AD +). The Bishorn is also a majestic peak, it was his edge is ( left), not the normal way, I am very interested.

Back in Schöllijoch, I watch a bit of what looks like a via ferrata that goes back to pass from the glacier and Topalihütte Scholl. Some hikers reach the end precisely at this moment: it blows and it will fall into your arms! Mmm, not so easy perhaps?

Back in a landscape warmer, greener, and it feels good today. Above, from left to right: Ussers Barrhorn, Inners Barrhorn, Schöllihorn.

Nothing to report from the following the hike: I arrive at the shelter, drink a good little mix, found my T-shirt that I had forgotten the morning and continue my path towards the valley.

Back in the car, I decided to find a campsite in the Anniviers neighbor. Indeed, the next summit, I decided to offer me is the Pigne Le, 3396, above the dam and the refuge Moiry.

Alas, my research lead to nothing! I have no luck: the 4 campsites in the Val d'Anniviers, no pleases me: to Grimentz is a stupid waste ground in the woods away from the center without showers or toilets, the Vissoie is poorly located and seems to be a camp of residence to Mission, I've never found, and the last, Zinal is ... closed.

Annoyed, I decided to stick to my original plan, and returns to Visp, then fall back on Saas Grund, where the campground Kapellenweg is indeed the kind of camping that I love. After a long day, a pizza and a beer to celebrate a beautiful top, I find myself quickly in the arms of Morpheus, despite the rain began to fall incessantly since the beginning of the evening ...

14/08/2010: Saas Grund

... and continued all day Saturday! What a mess: from boredom, reading non-stop, eating, sleeping, just nothing to report!

08/15/2010: Saas Grund - Saas Fee, 1798m - Gorge Alpine Via ferrata (KS3) - Saas Grund

Today I'm supposed Albert met my guide and go to the shelter Britannia our goal of being the next day by Allalinhorn Hohlaubgrat. But it is still raining and you can see the valley as the snow fell very low. By pure chance I met Albert and his group that is supposed to guide the Lagginhorn. None of this, it's too bad, 60cm of snow overnight and risk of avalanches. For a few minutes to show thinning and you can see a fabulous landscape ... winter around! (Allmagellerhorn, 3327m).

Albert invited me to join his group and make the descent of the Via Ferrata Feevispa Alpine Gorge, also because today it is not possible to undertake any climb! I'm still happy to get out of the tent and camping and I willingly join his group (a German, a Swiss). I play taxi and drive everyone to Saas Fee where you park in the huge parking lot.

The sky darkened again, but it does not lose his good humor :-)

The start of the via ferrata is very nice ...

... but soon we find ourselves suspended over the gorge!

All this is not difficult but I am still very careful because it is very slippery and it started to rain.

Under the eyes of some spectators, one crosses one particularly spectacular.

this zip Excellent!

Albert has it all.

Even if you're not in the high mountains here, it feels good to be in a place so wild.

Albert is next to go into the zip line.

All this is very "soft" but it's perfect for a day like this.

It is followed by almost a another group. Above the bridge from Saas Fee and the hamlet Zum Steg.

It's good to see Albert after two years but I still preferred to make a real mountain with him.

Second Tyrolean the day.

Some vertical ladders leading to the bottom of the gorge.

Here I am in a third zip line ...

... resulting in a mega-spectacular cave. It looks like a canyon in Utah here!

suspension bridge at 50m above beyond the throat. Not bad, but incomparable to that of the via ferrata Jägihorn traveled last year.

is the end: a final reminder and finish the Alpine Gorge early in the afternoon.

After a call to the Britannia, Albert and I decided to abandon the project Hohlaubgrat: still too much snow for at least two days. Albert is my intention to spend the night at his home in Spiez, perhaps there would be some way to race in the Bernese?

After crossing the Lötschberg, we arrive at Spiez. I am acquainted with the charming wife of Albert, Franz, and we are making plans for tomorrow.

Unfortunately, the weather played a trick on us. A cold front will fall on the Swiss Alpine preventing any activity. Common voice, Albert and I decided to leave any attempt as such. Too bad, it will be for another time. It was again a great release, and ideas for next year are already in place!