Zigzag through the western Alps (08.27-09.04.2009) 08/27/2009: Halle - Brussels - Basel - Bern - Visp - Saas Grund Nineteen (!) Years after my first test Mont Blanc (ending in a painful failure that taught me a lot about good preparation for a race in high mountains), I was ready to make another attempt on the highest peak in the Alps. The acclimation program was great in its simplicity: first, a 3000, then three peaks over 4000m, to be prepared up to altitude, factor that worries me a little bit anyway.
Crossing classic Ardennes, Luxembourg and the Vosges and change trains in Basel. After stopping in Bern, my train pulls into the new Lötschberg Basistunnel finally reach Visp. Advantage: I'm early in the Valais. Disadvantage: I do stop over in Kandersteg, a pretty village at the end of Kander allowing
magnigifiques views on the chain of Blümlisalp.
At Visp, I take the Postbus to Saas Grund. The Saas Valley delights me most: the two sides, huge mountain ranges stand (and Weissmies Mischabel) the valley itself is very close to its beginning near the village of Stalden but widening from Saas Balen and allows nice views of the whole circus Allalinhorn and Saas Fee. Saas Grund, I find them dorms Zurbriggen Sport and restaurant Bergheimat, familiar places from my stay in 2005
.
28/08/2009: Saas Grund, 1560m - Chreuzboden, 2397m - Weissmieshütten, 2726m - Jegihorn via ferrata (C / D), 3206m - Weissmieshütten 
After breakfast at the restaurant Bergheimat, waiting the arrival Severin, my German friend with whom I have already made the
crossing of the Bernina and the epic Blümlisalphorn / Gspaltenhorn in 2008. And here, at the agreed time, he got off the bus from Visp! Soon we're heading for the gondola that will spare us the 900 vertical meters to Chreuzboden, 2397m (we're not as hardcore
that Dreamer 4000 D). Nice view on the Fletschhorn, 3993m, and Lagginhorn, 4010m.
Weissmies massif, 4017m.
After 45min, we arrive at Weissmieshütten, 2726m. We still have the whole day before us! Our first objective is Jegihorn, 3206m, we can go through two paths: the normal, moderately difficult hike, and very interesting "Panorama Klettersteig" moderately difficult (in the field via ferrata) also (C), but with a variation difficult ( D), which includes passages like the spectacular "hanging bridge" (see photo above) and the "spider's nest." Naturally, we have the via ferrata and its variant as an objective.
After 20 minutes of walking, we arrive at the foot of the wall and put our set via ferrata. Soon, we gain altitude. All this is not very difficult, in fact: a little experience in climbing and cliff a total lack of vertigo make this kind of climbing very pleasant.
To make it even more interesting, I still recommend trying to climb the via ferrata "free", that is to say by looking for support and natural grip, instead of hoisting the along the cable.
far, we can already see the shift key (D) variant: a bridge suspended over the void!
Severin is the first to attempt the crossing. He attached two hooks of his set via ferrata cable suspended over his head and move slowly forward (basically, you can see the "spider's nest").
The "bridge" is not very wide :-)
Behind me, new "ferratists" appear.
Once Severin has reached the end of the bridge, I am. Billion, it's very exposed! Apparently, the bridge is 80m in length and is 50m above the ground. I can tell you it's very impressive. Sometimes under the influence of wind, the bridge starts to swing and thrills. Unlike Severin, I decided to attach two cables to snap lateral as the top cable is too high for me. It works pretty well but has the disadvantage that we must detach the hooks in certain places, which is still increasing stress. Ouff finally reached the end! The following passage, the spider nest, is also spectacular, but less fun anyway (it's been very gym class).
The following passages are more technical and very exposed.
After 2:30, we arrive at the top of Jegihorn. We are very pleased with our route of ascent: lecture, climbing beautiful, rich in moments, funny. Nice view Chreuzboden, Saas Grund, Saas Fee and its 4000 ...
Prime 3000m of the season.
The descent down the normal route is of little difficulty and will return early to Weissmieshütten, where we spend a pleasant afternoon watching the mountains (Lagginhorn, the objective of the next day) and groups of climbers ...
Former refuge (restored), which is built alongside the new building (where the
Weissmieshütten), where I take the picture. Behind them, interesting view on Jegihorn. The via ferrata up the spur to the right of the enormous corridor before crossing it via the suspension bridge. On the left the path of descent.
My favorite pastime in the mountains! That evening after dinner, we ask the guards (pair does not exactly overflowing with empathy, patience see) what time the alarm is given to Lagginhorn: "3:45" is their answer. What? for a race in rock?
29.08.2009: Weissmieshütten - Lagginhorn, 4010m (normal route, II, PD) - Weissmieshütten
So said, so done. We leave the refuge at 4:45 am, it's still completely black. From the top of Jegihorn, we climbed yesterday, we studied the path to the small glacier Lagginhorn, and therefore believe they do not encounter problems. But after an hour of climbing, we lose. We are in the midst of a huge field of debris and must traverse steep slopes and scabrous. Behind us, two small lamps we follow, that's all. Further down, there are four people. Gradually, he began to become clear to us what happened: we took the wrong Moraine, one leading to the glacier which descends from the Tall Fletschhorn, and there currently, we are on the western flank of the ridge southwest of Lagginhorn. How dumb of us have woken up so early, it does absolutely nothing!
We hesitated to wait an hour until the sun rises and then to the south-western edge full, or go down and up the moraine towards the good Lagginhorngletscher? You want to move and we opt for the descent. We quickly found the bottom and find the right path this time. After a climb of 400 meters, we arrive at the small glacier, totally devoid of cracks (or almost). Meanwhile, it became clear. It was decided not to rope up but are putting our crampons because everything is frozen. Going up the small glacier, I meet for the first time problems with my new cleats, which have the annoying habit of wanting to leave the base to which they are attached. Harbinger of what would happen later in the trip!
Around 3400 meters, we reach the edge. I start to lag behind Severin, who is in better condition than me. I'll
piano, I need a little time to acclimatize. The terrain is not very difficult, I-II maximum.
massif to Weissmies left. Basically, the Giants Valais arise above the cloud bank (Signalkuppe, Zumsteinspitze, Dufourspitze, Lyskamm, Rimpfischhorn, Allalinhorn, Breithorn Alphubel).
Weissmieshütten Seen from the summit is an impressive Jegihorn. But almost 4000mètres, it becomes quite insignificant. Behind the chain Mischabel (Täschhorn, Dom Lenzspitze, Nadelhorn, Stecknadelhorn, Hohberghorn, Dürrihorn, Balfrin) and the majestic Weisshorn (right thereof, the Bishorn).
The conditions are really good! We are not obliged to take the snowy slope leading to the summit and the rock right on the edge is not icy. Six hours after leaving the shelter, we walk the top of Lagginhorn, 4010m. This is my ninth in the series of 4000!
Soon, we make some pictures. He quails and after ten minutes, I press down on Severin. Behind the Fletschhorn, the Bernese Alps (including Bietschhorn). We share the summit with some other climbers.
But how to go away if such landscapes face us? The southern summit Lagginhorn, which is connected by an edge of difficulty III (AD is a race) to the main summit, looks like a real castle. The northern edge of Weissmies is even more impressive (AD +). The summit pointed to the left of the Piz d'Weissmies Andolla, 3653m.
Not a little proud :-)
Lagginhorn The summit is a very small tipped over huge chasms.
The upper snowfield that has been avoided by the right.
Severin began the descent, I'll follow closely.
Return without difficulty, snow of the glacier had become soft, I had fun down in "skiing." We're a little break after the Lagginhorngletscher recrossed. We take the time to look closely at my crampons and Severin failed to adjust a little bit.
An hour still separates us from the shelter, we have to go through this lunar landscape.
We spend the rest of the afternoon to rest, sleep, drink beer and admire the natural beauty (even if the ski-slopes Hohsaas and ski slopes are a wound in the landscape). We also discuss errors today: a preparation of the trail approaches the watch is not a luxury, we must invest more in good maps (scale 1:25000) and an altimeter (it would have helped a little during that it floundered in the night sides of scabrous Lagginhorn), and I have to be careful to hardware I buy. From left to right: Signalkuppe, Zumsteinspitze, Fluchthorn, Dufourspitze, Strahlhorn, Egginer, Rimpfischhorn, and Allalinhorn Feekopf.
The facade of the new robust Weissmiesshütte. The next day, we plan to climb Weissmies, and even to dream of crossing (rising by the north-west down the south ridge) but given the endless descent (2400m in altitude up to Saas Grund) we'll just do the normal route and go down the same path.
Fletschhorn Lagginhorn and bathe in the warm light of evening ...
... while Dom and co greet us on the other side of the valley. Good night!
08/30/2009: Weissmieshütten - Hohsaas 3098m - Weissmies, 4017m (normal, 35 °, PD-) - Hohsaas - Weissmieshütten - Chreuzboden
again awakening at 3:45, you almost get used. We only need half an hour this time to get ready. Today, we have no problem returning to the path Hohsaas and moving quickly, each busy with his thoughts.
After an hour, we'll Hohsaas and arrive after a small descent, along the Triftgletscher, traditional place for tying. Severin takes good care of it all: it is an excellent "top rope"! This is the first time that I venture on a glacier without a guide (and some doubts javais inititales), but with a fellow like him, I feel confident.
In the first part of the glacier, the trail meanders through a relatively flat, but filled with many cracks and must be very careful. Then the glacier stiffened more and more.
We are on a Sunday and there are dozens and dozens of climbers on the trail. We arribons to exceed several strung, demonstrating our fitness and acclimatization. The solid dark Lagginhorn serves decor. On the left, the west ridge which is the normal route, and right, the north ridge.
The view widens: in the foreground, and Almagellerhorn Plattenhorn, behind the dam and Stellihorn Mattmark, and basically the Mont Rose Lyskamm, Strahlhorn, Castor & Pollux Rimpfischhorn, and Allalinhorn Breithorn.
's it! After 4h and 1300m of climb without any particular difficulty (a little icy passage just below the summit) and almost no pauses, we arrive at the top of Weissmies. This is the first time I repeat a peak of 4000 (see story of my journey
in 2005).
The Lagginhorn is still dominant here, but the peaks behind any claim my attention to right, Fletschhorn, basically Blümlisalphorn, Bietschhorn Breitlauihorn, Lauterbrunner Breithorn Aletschhorn and Jungfrau.
the pyramidal peak is Monte Leone, 3553m. Just above, and Galenstock Dammastock. At the extreme right, Tödi.
Nice summit that we must share with many climbers.
THE classic photo taken from the top of Weissmies: the south ridge, through which came Dreamer 4000 (D) and his wife in August 2005
, and behind the Italian plains covered with the traditional haze.
I am delighted to have rebuilt this beautiful Weissmies but a cold wind will not make me stay long on the summit, either.
But before beginning the descent, a comprehensive study of the summits environnats needed: Portjenhorn, and 3567m Piz d'Andolla, 3653m, connected by the famous Portjengrat (AD +, IV), Mittelrück, 3363m, and Sonnighorn, 3487m.
Beautiful view Stellihorn, 3436m, beautiful summit which has fascinated me for some years now.
We have accomplished a great climb ...
... but are only 10 minutes on the summit because it is cold. Once we leave the highest degree, we can enjoy mild temperatures. With attention, we go down the only part really stiff and not allowing any error of the climb, a bit more icy.
The Weismes seems to me to bring good luck because the weather is splendid as in 2005.
Lagginhorn massif.
We descend the slopes of the glacier. Meanwhile, we pass by towering crevasses.
It is almost to the end zone seracs. Further down the glacier becomes flat. On the left, the area of cracks that will cross again.
phantastic, this day! Without problems, we return to Hohsaas where we drink a beer to celebrate the ascension. After the descent is long but the scenery makes you forget about all the trouble. In early afternoon we arrive at Chreuzboden. Mmm, that would be a great place to return with the children's playground, pond, restaurant ... This would be ideal for a family outing. Right below the Lagginhorn, we can see the Weissmieshütten.
We have a choice: either we go down with the bucket, or we take the imposing "Monster-Trotter", a sort of mix between a bike with no brakes and frankly step uh ... monstrous. Yeah okay, guess it was not too ...
With a furious rate, we dévalsons the 900m between now and Saas Grund. It's fun, it goes fast, the brakes work well, but it is not comfortable (no saddle!) And I find it a shame not to enjoy more information of this nature around me. I am delighted that Saas Valley is one of the most beautiful places I have visited in the Alps.
Once in Saas Grund, we pay our trot and we rush to the bus stop where we arrived just in time to jump on the bus Visp. At Visp, we take the train that takes us through the valley of the Rhone. At Martigny, I go down. Severin, meanwhile, returned to Lausanne. Ah, it's been quite a little time together in the valley of Saas. I go to my guest room and spends the rest of the day to change me, cleanse me, to discover the charming old town of Martigny, and eat a good pizza.
31.08.2009: Bridge, 1950m - Rifugio Vittorio Emmanuelle II, 2732m
night made me much good. Though my feet are a little sauce, I feel great! After doing some shopping, I go to the station of Martigny. There, I meet Oswald, mountain guide for mountaineering school
Montanara , and my fellow travelers Adrian (Switzerland, a resident of Zurich, and tries Mont Blanc for the second consecutive year) and Joanne (English, a resident of Neuchâtel).
We got into Oswald's car and we're en route to the Col du Grand St. Bernard. The valley of Entremont, we travel in its entirety, is breathtaking. The scenery is magnificent and full of history (in the form of numerous references to the passage of the armies of Hannibal and Napoleon). From time to time, we see beautiful mountains Petit Combin, Mont Velan, Grand Combin. After the Col du Grand Saint Bernard and his famous hospice, we follow the Valle del Gran San Bernardo jusqu'Aoste. Finally I find myself in the famous Val d'Aosta, a land of predilection Dreamer 4000 (D). In Villeneuve we leave the Aosta Valley and the great road and go home in the wild Val Savarenche . At the end of the valley, a few houses, ample parking, camping, and stunning mountains: Bridge, 1960m.
little break on the terrace, and then it's time to get going.
Short pass while flat, then it starts to rise. Note that in this part of the Alps, the treeline is very high: the last specimens energetic cling to an altitude of 2400m!
Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso is dotted with spectacular mountains: to the left, Ciarforon, 3640m, and right, Becca di Monciair, 3544m.
The landscape is a remarkable drought here.
After two hours of climbing very nice and quiet, we arrive at futuristic
Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele II , 2732m.
The terrace of the sanctuary, sunny, is a meeting place for climbers of various nationalities. Nice detail: when you ask for a beer, you are served a mega bottle of 0.67 l!
Ciarforon The imposing, rising to 3640m.
Becca di Monciair, 3544m, and Punta Foura, 34111m.
As usual in shelters Italian, eat well at night. We go to sleep relatively early because of a long day ahead tomorrow.
09/01/2009: Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele II - Gran Paradiso, 4063m (normal route, F +) - Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele II - Bridge - Courmayeur - Chamonix
Although brief, the night was very pleasant refuge Vittorio Emmanuele has no mega-dorms unlivable but small rooms where he sleep well.
The first two hours of climbing takes place in a landscape of moraine and scree. We will first stop in a flat in a spectacular position above the
Ghiacciaio del Gran Paradiso . In front, a secondary peak of Gran Paradiso, 3882m, and the Piccolo Paradiso, 3923m.
Vision spectacular Grivola, 3969m!
The first strung engage in climbing the glacier.
However, we opt for a variant on the right edge of the glacier is equipped with a mini via ferrata (easy) and opens into a cone of ice steeper (40 °), the "back of the donkey."
We find ourselves almost at the height of Ciarforon, who presents his normal way (PD).
The panorama is breathtaking: I discovered this part of the Alps which was completely unknown before. I acknowledge one summit to the bottom stands the Barre des Ecrins.
I can only assume to see the Grande Casse, 3855m, middle, and the Aiguille de la Grande Sassière, 3747m, right.
Fortunately, the side of Mont Blanc, I know a little better: Mont Blanc, Maudit, Tacul, Midi, Dent du Géant Jorasses.
After the "back of the donkey," the glacier raplatit. However, it was a hot time. You remember my problems with studs? Well, in the middle of climbing a steeper slope (40 °), my two studs simultaneously decide to leave my feet! Until today, I do not understand how this could happen. Little stress, little fear. Fortunately, Oswald, though nothing irritated, is there to put an ice screw reassuring and lends me his volontièrement Grivel crampons (apparently mine are completely unsuited to my shoes) and I can continue without any problems. Henceforth, crampons brand Petzl Charlet no longer return home ...
The monarch in all its splendor.
bergschrund Once completed, we can remove our crampons. An easy climb takes us to the foot of the summit block. Here is the line at the only crossing a bit more technical climb (II a step above an empty more or less impressive). You should know that the Gran Paradiso an easy mountain, 4000m and more, so the crowds (inexperienced) guarantees. But we are patient, it is beautiful, and at one point, it's our turn to climb to the Madonna.
classic picture taken from the summit of Gran Paradiso, 4061m. But to become a classic, must really worth the trouble, and there is no doubt here.
View from the top of the Madonna to the main summit of Gran Paradiso. It is supposed to be a bit more up (I tend to agree with that) but wonder if he is really worth ...
Maxi-view: at the bottom of Mont Blanc, Grivola and Grand Combin. In the foreground: Becca di Montandayné, 3838m, and Herbetet, 3778m.
Here it is: 10x4000m! (OK, I promise to stop doing that on every 4000m)
Incredible vision quite responsible, at 200 km: Monviso, 3842m.
before the pyramidal peak is Monte Emilius, 3559m. Behind the giants of Valais him steal the attention Weisshorn, Dent Blanche, Matterhorn, Mischabel Monte Rosa.
After a short stop at the top, Oswald decides to go down (you have to make room for caravans following!). No punishment, no fear this time.
Descent peaceful ...
... through a glacial landscape fabulous ...
... Finally the ledge above where we make a break.
After the descent to the refuge is in quiet contemplation and quiet operation worthy of the desert that surrounds us here.
Beer consumed on the terrace tastes good after that run 1330m in altitude.
We return to bridge take the road to Chamonix. Crossing Courmayeur and expensive Mont Blanc tunnel (hallucinatory vision, see depressing: the Italian coast, the mouth of the tunnel congestive truck is right beside the glacier Miage below the famous Aiguille Noire). Arrived in Chamonix, we headed to the hotel
The Cottage, which really breathes the mountain (not difficult as directed by a family of mountain guides). That evening, we discuss our ascent Mont Blanc looming, tomorrow we will climb to the refuge of Taste, and the next we'll cross the mountains with three Mont Blanc, Mont Maudit and Mont Blanc du Tacul.
02.09.2009: Chamonix - Martigny - Rhônegletscher, 2272m - Furkapass, 2436m - Tiefenbach, 2110M - Albert-Heim-Hütte, 2543m - Tiefenbach
After breakfast we drive to Les Houches to Bellevue to the dumpster. Surreal situation: after 1 km of road, we turn back. Oswald had contact with his boss, and it is explicit: do not even try, tomorrow it will very bad in height (snow storm). That disappointment (doubling for Adrian as his attempt ends the same way as the previous year), even if it is not too surprising: the ascent of high mountains, especially Mount Blanc is often a game of luck with the weather and conditions. We go on
Martigny via the Col de Forclaz. There may be another chance to race, the weather is not awful everywhere in the Alps. After consultation with his office, Oswald offers us the ascent of Galenstock, proud guardian of the Rhone glacier in central Switzerland. We do not hesitate, it's a pretty prestigious race on a hilltop, and accept the alternative proposed.
I recrossed the valley of the Rhone. Brig past, I discovered the upper Rhone valley, Goms. On the left, descending the narrow valleys of the great glaciers of the Alps Bernese Alps right Lepontine, little known and popular, which have long fascinated me. A Gletsch, the road splits: the left, it goes to the Grimsel Pass, 2165m, straight, to pass Furka 2421m.
Halfway cervical Furka, Hotel Belvedere is a classic stop. From the terrace, visitors can enjoy a beautiful view over the Rhone Glacier, which has its source here. One can also go see a grotto in the glacier, but as it is payable, our visit will be short.
The Rhone, all young and wild.
Hotel Belvedere, topped by the Mutt and the Gross Muttenhorn, 3099m.
From Furka Pass, we see the Galenstock, 3586, whose goal for tomorrow is the spur south-east through the wall from right to left.
We sat in the pleasant hotel Tiefenbach
, 2106m. Oswald returns home to Andermatt, a village nearby, Adrian will visit a local guide in order to get a ski that he lost last winter, and that's how Joanne and I decide to do a short walk of the afternoon until Albert Heim hut. Note that the landscape is much greener than for example the Saas Valley and National Park of Gran Paradiso. Indeed, the region receives a lot of the Gotthard precipitation (due to the foehn).
We travel the last hundred meters to shelter in the rain. The Albert Heim hut
, 2543m, is in absolutely phantastic scenery and is the starting point for many walks, climbs and alpine climbing routes. But alas, today, gray prevails.
soon as it stops raining, we leave the refuge and descend the 400 meters that separate us from the hotel Tiefenbach. A good meal and an evening round the day that has not really kept its promises.
09/03/2009: Tiefenbach - Sidelenhütte, 2708m - Galenstock spur southeast (up to 3150m test) - Sidelenhütte - Tiefenbach
We leave early from the hotel. It's still dark we are already on the way home to Sidelen. By halfway, we must leave our jackets because it starts to rain.
This corner is a paradise for climbers: Dreamer 4000 (D) would find his happiness! Gross and Klein Furkahorn, Galengrat, Gross Bielenhorn, Chli Bielenhorn with his famous "Schildkrötengrat" Tower of Hannibal, and bizarre forms of Gross and Chli Kamel, 2900, there would easily a week.
Arrival at
Sidelenhütte . The enthusiasm is diminishing, the weather is not promising.
The very warm and pleasant refuge Sidelen.
For a brief moment, a blue sky made up our hope.
After a short coffee break we resume the path of Galenstock. We climb the glacier roped Sidelen not as much reduced risk of cracks. To 3150m, we arrive at the foot of the spur southeast Galenstock.
We are surrounded by clouds and more, the wind blows hard. We decide to wait for an improvement.
The first meters of climbing the spur southeast Galenstock (PD III).
Finally, we turn back. We can not take the risk of being on the summit ridge in a storm. But time seems to taunt us, a beautiful blue sky appears above Galenstock.
High above the glacier crevasses Sidelen.
How sad for not being able to climb this magnificent granite.
Last Mile of the glacier. View Leckihorn, 3068m, and Pizzo Rotondo, 3192m.
is the end of a very nice stay in the Swiss Alps, Italian and French. I still have not made the summit of Mont Blanc, but other peaks were worth the effort. I realize that Mont Blanc is a mountain very high and that many factors determine a success or not in good physical condition, good weather and a lot of time with his his disposal!
